Forged Scissors Part 1
Description
http://www.selfrelianceoutfitters.com
http://astore.amazon.com/davecante-20
The Pathfinder School,Bush Craft ,Survival skills, Historical Lore, Primitive Skills, Archery, Hunting, Trapping, Fishing, Navigation, Knives, Axes, Fire, Water, Shelter, Search and Rescue
Tags: Bushcraft,Survival,David Canterbury,Dave Canterbury,Pathfinder,The Pathfinder School,Archery,Hunting,Fishing,Camping,Primitive Skills,Fire,Water,Shelter,Navigation,First Aid,Search and Rescue,Signaling,Prepper,Preparedness,Self Reliance,Survivability,The 10 C's,Knives,Axes,Saws,Bow Drill,Ferrocerium Rod,Ferro Rod,Tarp,Hammock,Canteen,Cooking,Longhunter,Trapping
Video Transcription
morning folks I'm Dave Canterbury with self-reliance Outfitters in the Pathfinder school and what I thought I'd do today out here at the forge in the shop is I would try to recreate a pair of hand forged scissors and recreating items from the past and being able to become more self-reliant in the things that we create we can create I think is important but I like to recreate historical items as well and scissors are something that have been used since Egyptian times most of them were the spring style says there's like you see for shearing sheep and things like that's a day on smaller scale the scissors like these that are hand forged overseas or at least they're made overseas that are pivoting type says there's like this really didn't come into being until Egyptian times and they really didn't come into production or full replication or manufacturing until the 1760s in England and then later in the 1830s in Scandinavia but scissors that were like this style with the pivoting Center in them cross-cutting like this we're used even in the Viking era and there are examples of scissors like this that have been found in Viking burials so this type of scissor has been around for a long long time and today we're going to try to recreate that so I'm going to use two pieces of metal stock that are 1095 that are one inch wide and one foot long and I'm going to make each side individually and match them up and then I'm going to try to put them together and make a pair of scissors so stay with me and I'll walk you through the process okay so I've basically taken one side of these shears and matched it up and cut it out of a piece of 1095 and now I'm going to just kind of clean this up so it's the exact profile that I want and then I'm going to make the other side out of another piece of 1095 and then we'll start the assembly and forging process there's not a lot of forging involved in this other than heating things up to bend them and round them out and then of course the heat treating tempering and quenching and tempering of the blades themselves as you can see they're a single bevel edge and they weren't overly sharp surely like a knife blade but they had a fairly steep probably a 30 degree angle single bevel on them and we'll put that on there probably on the belt grinder itself on a two inch belt grinder but that could easily be put in there with an angle grinder as well if you're trying to do some simple tools and you can heat this stuff up if you had to with an ox oxy acetylene torch or something like that if you didn't have a forge so really the first thing I want to do is just clean up some of the jagged edges and I'm just gonna lay this thing right here on the belt to do that I'm just going to get that thing Trude up to the line so that when I trace this on to my second piece I'll have an exact match in the end so the only thing I'm going to do now is just lay this one on top of another piece exactly like it trace it on there with a marker and then I'm going to cut that piece out and if I turn it over it'll be the opposite way so it doesn't matter that I cut it the same because I can always flip it over and it'll be the opposite side okay so there's our second side layout we'll just go over on the bandsaw and chop that dude out and we'll come over here get it straightened up and form matching on this one and then we'll get to work and once we get that cut out if we take our scrap from both sides you've actually got two pretty decent knife blades right there and we can use later on in 1095 so we'll set that scrap aside save that for carving knives or smaller puku style knives down the road here okay so once we get our two sides cut out what we're looking at is this we want those blades to overlap at the tip and don't worry about any of this down here because we're gonna shape that the way we want to hear it momentarily right now what we're looking at is an initial fit up where do we want to put our hole because we've got to drill this thing as well and we'll drill it before we grind the blades in or do anything else while the metal still annealed and soft we'll go ahead and drill our hole in here so we need to figure out where that's going to be and get that in the right spot so I'm gonna take a metal punch here to basically punch myself a spot on there where I'm gonna drill that okay so once we decide how we want this blade to lay against each other then we can kind of come in here figure out a good center point that punch this and we'll just come in here and mark the spot well drill one side then we'll match it up the other side and mark it and drill it on the drill press or with a regular hand drill either one will work okay so now we're gonna find our rivet stock and we can use just a regular nail for that if we want to or we can use a piece of steel round stock and I kind of go between the two I'd like to use nails for pens and knife scales but I think we're gonna want a little bit more beef to this rivet so I think I'm gonna go with a piece of round stock it's bigger diameter than nail so because I've got some scrap laying around here so now I just need to match that up to a drill bit this is 7/32 not quite there this must be a piece of quarter inch round stock I'd say it is so we'll go ahead and cut a quarter inch hole in here and drill it through and then we'll match it up and drill the other side okay so we've got one side drilled and now we're just going to lay it on top again and line things out the way we want to lay when the scissors are done make sure we got an even amount of space there and then we're just going to take a marking pen here double-check everything give ourselves a circle there where we won our hole come in and punch that with our punch again just Center punch it so that we can drill that hole okay once we've got that taken care of you can lay those over the top and just make sure it's exactly what we wanted to be now we need to decide where we're going to put our plunge line on the blades themselves so I'm gonna lay this sideways here for a minute and I'm gonna put one on top of the other as they would lay and by my plunge line I mean where am I gonna put my grind I think I'm gonna start about right here with my grind I'm gonna marked out on both sides just like that and then I'm just going to start my grind here and go down and here and go down by putting it on the same type of jigs that I used for the knives but I'll use the one that I use for the draw knives because it's got about a 30 degree angle on it all right this is the jig that we use for our draw knives and it puts about a thirty degree angle on there so I'm got the side that I've got the plunge line drawn on and I'm gonna move out a little bit away from that but I've got to keep it flat against the jig and I'm just going to use cheap clamp here but I've got to make sure that when I clamp that on there it's not going to move and my plunge line is going to be on the straight side here and I just want to make sure that I can line everything up and see what I'm doing if I need to I'll transfer that plunge line to the top of the knife just like this so I can look at it from above on the sanding belt okay and then we're just going to grind a single bevel grind on that side similar to the draw knives [Music]
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okay so there's one side done pretty much you've just got a single bleated or a single bevel grind knife there at about a 30-degree angle and I've ground that down pretty close I've got about half the thickness of a dime maybe left there [Music]
all right so we're measuring our tails here to make sure that they're exactly the same length for both sides we've got rounded out now and now we're going to start to put the curvature in our handles understanding the blades will lay like this and a curve the handle toward
the blade edge [Music]
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About the Author
wildernessoutfitters
From the lore of bushcraft to all things related to self-sustainability, the Pathfinder vision is to pass on the knowledge of outdoor self-reliance. Providing basic to advanced self-reliance training and survival gear, our goal is to offer both practical knowledge and survival gear that will stand the test of time. From emergency preparedness to sustainability, the Pathfinder way is to share and educate.
Here you can explore the world of survival knives, survival kits and simple tips on outdoor self-reliance. We are always learning and enjoy passing on the knowledge we acquire.
There is no substitute for having a plan in the event of the unexpected.
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- Survival Bows (The Tillering Process)
- Blacksmithing Part 6 Common Man Tools and lighting the Forge
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 2
- Sloyd Project 1 Fid
- On the Waters Edge, Trekken and Fishen
- Traditional Cold weather Hammocking
- Knife Making, Material Reduction Knife Start to Finish Part 3
- Trapline Journal Coyote in MB450
- Winterizing the Hammock for the Common Man
- Samick Sage Recurve 8pt Buck Kill
- Large Bushpot Intro
- Bucksaw Modifications
- Fatwood Collecting Processing Igniting
- Aussie Wool Blanket
- Assembling a Custom Classic in the Mora Factory
- Traditional Camp Pack weight
- PFODJ Ep 2
- Hook Knife Part 1
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 4
- 1908 A&F Cook Grate
- Nordic Pocket Saw
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 1
- PFODJ Ep 5 Moved from the Pay Channel
- PFODJ Progression of Meat Source Gathering
- Experiments in Viking Navigation Viking Sun Stone
- Turkey Tail Materia Medica
- Hook Knife Part 2
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 3
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 2
- Double on Coons
- The Woodsmans Pantry Plus and the Woodland Chef Cook Kit
- Cooking Bannock in the Bush Pot with a Pack Grill Rack
- Fence Line Snares for Coyote
- Forged Scissors Part 2
- Pathfinder Scout Hammock
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 5 Raccoon Meatloaf
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 2 Firearms
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 7 Fleshing Hides
- WInter Clothing Discussion
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 4 Tail Stripping
- Hammock Chair Hunting Seat
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 1
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 6 Single Shot Maintenance
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 8 Pocket Sets
- Making a Holiday Wreath
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 9 Making Kvass
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 3 Trash Panda
- 110 For Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 13 Wood Stoves
- Morakniv Carbon Steel Garberg
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 14 Releasing a Domestic Animal
- Z Drag with wooden Pulleys
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 12 Log Crossing Set
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 11 Chasing Mink
- Exotac Products and Titan Lighter tips
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 10 Mapping the Creek Bed
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 15
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 16 Last day for a few
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 18 Buck Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 17 Hidden Woodsman Pack
- Bushcrafting a Tarp Clip
- DD Tents
- Neck Knife to Carry or Not to Carry
- Blanket Pin Tripod
- Comprehensive Bow Drill
- Hibiscus Cordage
- The Versatile Marline Spike Hitch
- Hammock Chair Terrapin Outfitters
- Sticky Rice
- Udemy Intro Video
- Conserving the Bic in an emergency
- LL Bean Continental Ruck Sack
- Navigation The X Box Exercise
- Cave Man Conibear Updated
- Limb line Hook Set Device from natural materials
- Solar Embers without Char or Fungus
- Packing up the raised Bed Camp
- Raised Bed Emergency Shelter
- Basket Trap for Crayfish
- Making a Sun Compass
- Ottomani Sun Compass
- Dutchwaregear Chameleon Hammock and Xeon Tarp
- Tulip Poplar Knife Sheath
- Shadow Board Direction Finding
- Dirty by design
- Orienting a Map without a Compass
- Mushroom Foraging Part 2
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Crane
- Paracord Hammock
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Quickly Deployable Ridgeline
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Hanging Camp Gear
- Tighten a Shear Lash Easily
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Tripod
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 90 Degree Spine
- Mushroom Foraging
- Broiling Fish with Grill Racks and the SRO Monthly Special
- Exerpt on Basket Weaving at the Bushcraft 101 Class
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Double Prusik Tensioning System
- Week Long Training Loadout
- Lunch and the Base Camp Cookset
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 5 Navigational Aids
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The Angular Advantage
- Last Shadow First Shadow Method
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Improved Fire Starting
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Hanger
- Tulip Poplar The Best Eastern Woodland Bushcraft Resource
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Bark Candle Lantern
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 6
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The JB Figure 4 Variant
- Mushroom Foraging Part 3
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 3
- 5 Minutes to better Bushcraft other uses for Puffball Mushroom
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 7
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 5
- Fried Puff Ball Mushrooms
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 4
- Using a Strop to Clean, Sharpen, and Hone your Blades
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 1
- Best Survival Deadfall Trigger PDF4
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 2
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 9
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 8
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 10
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 11
- Blood Trailing a Deer
- M6 Takedown Rifle Comparison to the Springfield Scout
- Safe Release of Non Target Species
- French Press Testing and Protyping
- Simple Camp and a Test of the Wildward Lavu
- Pocket Stove Comparison