Knives JMHO
Description
http://www.thepathfinderstore.com
Dave Canterbury, David Canterbury, The Pathfinder School,Bush Craft ,Survival skills, Historical Lore, Primitive Skills, Archery, Hunting, Trapping, Fishing, Navigation, Knives, Axes, Fire, Water, Shelter, Search and Rescue
Tags: Bushcraft,Survival,David Canterbury,Dave Canterbury,Pathfinder,The Pathfinder School,Archery,Hunting,Fishing,Camping,Primitive Skills,Fire,Water,Shelter,Navigation,First Aid,Search and Rescue,Signaling,Prepper,Preparedness,Self Reliance,Survivability,The 10 C's,Knives,Axes,Saws,Bow Drill,Ferrocerium Rod,Ferro Rod,Tarp,Hammock,Canteen,Cooking,Longhunter,Trapping
Video Transcription
when folks Dave Canterbury at the Pathfinder School what I wanted to do today was I wanted to again go into one with our basic series but I what I wanted to do is talk about knives and have a serious knife discussion today I have recently been involved in quite a few discussions and visual things on knives and I want to put this in the basic series so that people understand why I choose the types of nice that I choose why I think that some knives are more favorable over other knives and then also I want to talk to you about things that you see on the internet about different knives and one thing that I want you to understand right off the bat is if you are watching a review of any piece of gear it doesn't matter whether it is a knife or what it is if you're watching a review somebody saying I'm going to review this piece of equipment first of all look at what conditioning equipments in if it's brand new chances are they've never used it how can they review it number two look at that person's overall skill level have you watched any of their other videos to see what their skill level is as a woodsman as a bushcrafter as a survivalist and that would lead you to believe either hey this guy knows a little bit about what he's talking about or maybe not so much and that's what you need to understand I see a lot of reviews on YouTube and I don't watch many because a lot of times I'd flat turn them off I'll be honest with you fi if I pull up a video let's just take a knife review for instance if I pull a knife review up on YouTube and the knife looks brand new I generally shut the video off if it's laying on a table and it's not in the woods or the guy's not using it to do something with and he's just talking about the knife I generally turn it off the other thing is I look to see what the guy's skill level is while he's using that knife if he's using it and I will tell you now that if you take the crappiest bud K knife on the planet and you put a good sharp edge on it and you take a nice Mora that cost 20 bucks and you put a good edge on it and you take any given knife that meets the criteria that we're going to talk about and you sharpen that thing up it doesn't matter if it cost three or four hundred dollars if you put all three of those knives in the hands of more Skowronski he's going to make every one of them look like a knife you'd want to buy because his skill level and his expertise at fine carving and things like that are so precise and so good and so well honed that he makes it look natural no matter what he's using the deal with on the other hand if you take that same set of knives and you put them in the hands of someone of lesser skill level much less skill level it doesn't matter how good the knife is they're going to make that knife look bad and it could look like something you don't want to buy even if it might be something that's very good so I want you to think about those things when you're looking at videos of a knife reviews and things like that because some of what we're going to do today is going to be talking about knives right in front of you some of its going to be we're going to demonstrate some things with the knives pros and cons of the different knives one thing that you will never see me do with a knife and it's another thing that I turn it completely off as soon as I see it in a video is you'll never see me take a 5 or 6 inch blade and chop with it there's absolutely no reason to chop with a knife that's not meant for chopping if you want a chopping knife get a machete get a Chris Kane survival tool get a goal lock get a poor wrong get a kakari get something that's made for chopping and processing wood or vines or bamboo or whatever the case may be but don't use a 5 6 inch knife to smack around and try to chop with and make excuses that the handle is not long enough or that you need to move it up and choke back and put a lanyard on it so you don't let go of it and get more leverage on the blade that's bunk okay you should never have to chop with a knife that's not made to chop with that knife should be used to baton through material or to push through material by using different types of cuts not swung like some kind of axe or a machete that's what you want that's what you buy that's the next thing that we need to talk about in this video is understand before you buy a knife
what is that knife going to do for me versus what do I want that knife to do for me and I get a lot of questions from a lot of people about you know what's the best survival knife out there well the patented answer to that is the one you have on you in a survival scenario but that leads you right back to that's probably the knife you bought to begin with so did you buy the right knife and when I look at that what I want to tell you is I look at any knife that I'm going to strap to my hip on a daily basis as a survival knife because chances are that's the knife I'm going to get stuck with in an emergency because I put it on my hip every single day and I'm not going to lose it so with that said I need to make sure that whatever knife I'm going to select a carry every day is going to be a knife that is multifunctional in an emergency scenario it doesn't necessarily have to be a chopper because a big chopper is not going to be good at fine carving it doesn't necessarily have to be great at fine carving because it's not going to be very good for batana processing would necessarily it has to be capable of a lot of things it has to be capable of processing game it has to be capable of processing wood it has to be capable of the fine carving but it also has to be capable of making bigger logs smaller pieces so that you can create things like pencil sized sticks from a 4-inch log if you have to or just split things out when you absolutely have to so that knife has to do a lot of things for you and has to cover a lot of bases if you go back to my video on knives of the frontier or you know the kind of history of knives that have been used throughout time you'll see that really the most common denominator is about a five to six inch blade at least in the United States about a five to six inch blade and some type of a butcher knife design either a European butchering knife or an Americanized version of a butchery knife or a French version of the butchering knife and those type blade designs lend themselves well to a lot of different things for the woodsman that's why they use them that's why they were around four to three hundred years that's the reason some of them are still made today so understand what you want to do with that knife it's a back up knife that you're buying you're going to put your backpack then maybe it doesn't have to be that perfect knife that's going to do everything maybe you're buying a backup knife only for you know the trap line you're going to make your money cuts with and you're going to keep that thing razor sharp and it's going to be a perfect blade for you to make those precision cuts that you have to make not to mess up a fur on an animal or maybe it's going to be your bush crafting knife that you're going to put in your in your backpack and you're going to keep that thing with you to do your fine carving and making feather sticks and doing
those little fancy things that we do in bushcraft but does that lend itself to a good survival knife maybe yes maybe no depends on if it meets the criteria that you decided needs to meet for me I have certain criteria that I look at in a knife and we'll talk about that right now okay so let's get started on our knife discussion here a little bit and let's talk about it I've got a table or a bench of knives here basically that are all knives that I have personally used over and over and over and over none of these knives are brand new all of these knives have been tested thoroughly in a wilderness environment for a lot of different tasks so I can tell you I feel confident that I can tell you what the pros and cons are of these type knives now the first thing that you need to think about when you're selecting a knife is again back to what is that knife going to do for me versus what do I want it to do for me so for the sake of this discussion because we're talking about basic concepts let's talk about this is the knife I'm going to strap to my tip and this is the knife that I'm probably going to end up with if everything goes bad I lose all of my gear that knife is going to be shot to my hip and it's going to be my only tool that I have to use to affect my survivability and there is a big difference between that and a bushcraft knife that you carry in your pack as a spare where you put it around your neck or where the case may be totally against putting knives around my neck but that's beside the point okay so blade thickness that is your first key element to me a knife that's going to be used for a multitude of tasks needs to be 3/16 of an inch thick at a minimum I do carry knives personally that are only 1/8 of an inch thick this three dollar butcher knife from a yard sale is only a little over an eighth of an inch thick it's not quite 3/16 so if I had to measure it you know it's right in between there but it doesn't quite meet my minimum standard although I've used this knife for everything under the Sun so I'm pretty confident that in its ability to sustain me it needs be this butcher knife is 3/16 this is the habilis Pathfinder butcher knife it's 3/16 so 3/16 is a good thickness to start out with now let's talk about why not at 8:10 it's okay because generally what you'll find is most knives will be 1/8 inch 3/16 and then quarter inch 1/8 inch knife is going to have a lot of flexibility in it if the metal is tempered correctly and it may Bend on you or snap on you depending on again the temper of the knife I've never broken an old hickory butcher knife and they're eighth of an inch thick so an eighth of an inch knife can do the job for you but it's not going to be near as rigid or good for prying if you have to do things like that that's 3/16 so there's a little bit of a trade-off there I would say my personal opinion is 3/16 for beginning knife though it's going to be the one night that you buy to keep on your hip and this is where you're going to put all your eggs okay in my opinion again this is just my opinion your knife should be your most expensive item in your kit for the most part or you should have the majority of your budget set aside for your knife because that's what you're really going to stake your life on with that knife you can't do everything else if you have to as long as you have the skill level now remember during this video there's I'm not talking bad about any knife makers I'm not talking about about any people who review knives on TV on on YouTube or use knives on TV all I'm saying to you is these are my standards these are the knives that I choose and this is why you can make your own decision from what we're talking about once we get beyond the thickness of the blade then we need to talk about the tang is a full tang absolutely necessary in other words is it one piece of solid metal that the scales are both the two on both sides almost all of these knives all of these knives are full tang the knives I have over here or not again I go back to if I'm going to get stuck with this one and I have no other tools I may have to do things like prying hitting hard on the back of the spine with a baton of some sort to process firewood all those types of things lend themselves to a weakness in a rat tail Tang knife because it's smaller it's not like that rat tail tangs the same thickness the 9 and 3/4 the way back to handle generally speaking a rat tail tang knife is exactly that it shrinks down to a rat tail and then goes back into the knife so that is a weak point in the overall structure of that knife that could compromise you in a real emergency situation so I choose again I choose to always carry a full tang knife on my hip and that's my personal opinion so all of these knives are full tang now backup knife could definitely be a non full tang knife and most of my backup knives generally are non full tang we'll talk about that in a few minutes the next thing that I want to know on this knife is and here again this is the these some of these things are kind of go no-go for me I can live with eight-inch if I have to I'd rather have 3/16 but there's certain aspects of that night that I can't live without or I'm not willing to do without one of them is that that knife has a very sharp a 90-degree spine on it so that it will effectively remove material from a ferrocerium rod and there is a big misconception out there about ferrocerium rods and knives most of the time if you're having problems striking your Ferro rod it's not the rod it's the knife so what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a couple random knives here for you I've got several different feral rods from cheap $5 Ferro rods all the way up to $50 Ferro rods and we're going to strike them with a knife and you're going to see that for the most part they're the same ok so what we got here is we have a variety of ferrocerium rods this rod is just a cheap rod probably off of our website and the handle of been yanked off of it it's been wrapped in duct tape to give me a good heavy-duty handle most of the feral rods that you're going to buy and I say most not all most of the feral rods are going to buy the handles are going to come off of them eventually sooner or later anyway so I just take mine off on these cheaper ones and I wrap them in duct tape so I've got an element of fire wrapped around it an emergency plus I have this this duct tape is for no other use except a handle or fire I carry duct tape my kit for other things on this side I have arrived from Canton shop comm Rob Simpson spare rod I'm very fond of these they're good feral rods they're a little bit more expensive than wrapped in the leather I think they come from deeply handcraft I'm not sure that and they're very good fair rod to stick inside your knife sheet that's what you like to do this is a cheapie like a Coghlan model ferrocerium rod this is the Bob spark from fire steels calm this rod is just a long blank fire rod that was made by one of my instructors that has a copper butt end glued or epoxy Don and pinned in that's filled with lead on the backside so they can be used for a Bopper for napping whether it's for your flintlock or whether it's for making arrowheads out of glass or flint whatever the case may be it also gives you a good handle to hold on to and a large striking surface
to remove material into your tinder bundle again cost difference is a lot here you're talking this one in this one are probably five bucks or less this one's around 2025 this one's around 2025 I believe these things are around 40 50 bucks so you've got a big difference there but the bigger the rod is the longer it's going to last a lot of guys ask me about this blocks of magnesium with a little bitty rod going across the top of them those things are useless in my opinion you're going to wear that rod out long before you ever get rid of that magnesium and most all of your ferrocerium rods have a heavy content of magnesium in them already that's going to burn if you can't remove the material with your blade that's the important thing
it's generally not the Ferro rod that causes you the problems it's the blade okay I'm going to use a couple of different knives to do this stuff with first one I'm going to use is the Pathfinder knife this is made by blind or snobs it's called the PLS k1 the Scandinavian grind 3/16 own inch a little over a five-inch blade this one happens to have curly maple handles on it it has a good sharp 90 degree spine so let's try this one first on just a cheapy rod now that's just as cheap II $5 rod here's the cheapy one off my website you can see it's removing enough materials hang it up on the back of the knife even here is the gob spark okay canteen shop comm got to get the coating off of it okay now I'm going to show you what just happened here
the cap just came off of this the leather coiled cap just came off of this I've never seen that happen to one of these fair rods before that it goes right back to what I was telling you almost any fair rod you buy the cap is going to come off of it unless it's pin through it's going to come off just wrap it with tape and go on and don't worry about it if you're looking for something fancy looking do yourself a favor make sure you got some duct tape with you when you get done here is the large barrel rod again we've got to get the coating off of it once we get the coating off of it it shouldn't take a whole lot of effort when you do this if your knife is good 90-degree spine on it it won't take much effort so you can see that all of those barrel rods will work just fine with that knife okay this is the more of bushcraft black we haven't talked about this knife yet it's not a full tang knife it is high carbon steel which means it's going to rust if you don't take care of it but it's going to be easier to sharpen in the field than stainless I prefer a high carbon we'll talk about that a little bit in Y on our next exercise but let's look at what this will do and again it has that good 90-degree spine so let's start with our cheap e Ferro rod here pretty good the other cheap e Ferro rod pretty good gob sport
real good the long heavy-duty one real good the canteen shop pretty good ok so you can see that as long as we have a good 90 degree spine doesn't really matter whether the knife cost 30 or 40 bucks like this one we're close to $300 like the Pathfinder knife they're going to do what you need them to do with the Ferro rod and that's the important characteristic to understand will this knife be good for striking a ferrocerium rod every time I see someone take their knife and strike their ferrocerium rod with the blade of their knife I know that person doesn't know what they're doing because I'm never going to sacrifice my knife blade to strike a Ferro rod I can always use the back of this or I can find something else if I can't do that but I'm never going to sacrifice my blade this area of your blade from here to here from this curve back is going to do two-thirds of everything you do with this knife will take place right here we'll talk about that a little bit too ok so that gives us a pretty good look at one of the things that we want our not to be capable of which is striking our ferrocerium rod a ferrocerium rod in my opinion is the most reliable fire-starting device you can possibly have in an emergency scenario matches are a one-shot deal lighters run out of fluid and get wet all of those types of things you need to concentrate your efforts on understanding how to use a Ferro rod with lots of different tenders because a Ferro rod there is a very very hot spark that will light up a lot of tender and it works even when it's wet get yourself as big a Ferro rod as you can find that you can afford in the long run and carry that with you as your main ferrocerium rod alright moving on the next thing that we want to look at is the steel that this knife is made out of everything that I do with this knife has to be a multifunctional deal obviously I can do a lot of things at this knife as far as making other things and that makes it multifunctional but it also needs to be part of my kit as far as being useful for at least three I need to be able to start fire with this thing as one of those chores or duties of my knife and by scraping that ferrocerium rod that takes care of that element but I would also like for my knife to be able to throw sparks from a hard rock in case I would lose my ferrocerium rod for some reason and all I'm left with is this knife if I can get a fire built somehow because I made a bow drill set with my knife I don't want to have to go through that hassle the second time so if I can make char cloth in that first fire thinking ahead to my next fire and I can find a nice hard rock I can use that to create an ember then put in a bird nest and forego the whole bow drill action on the next fire so I want this knife to be made out of high carbon steel so that it will throw sparks off of the spine with a hardrock high carbon Steel's oh one tool steel 1095 while the Condor knives are made out of a 10 65 1070 not really enough carbon in them to throw a good spark you see there's no Condor knives on this table not because I've never used one but because it's not a knife that I would carry all of the time so if you're going to ask me about other knives and you don't see it on this table it's because I either haven't carried it don't carry it or I have carried it and don't like it and don't carry it anymore these are the knives that I trust okay so let's talk about striking sparks with the back of our knife so again what we're trying to accomplish here is turning our knife into an ignition source and we can do that as long as we have that high carbon steel blade so let's pick up first of all we'll just pick up this butcher knife what I'm going to do with my knives when I've decided I'm going to buy one is I'm going to do this first that thing's throwing sparks I'm a happy camper now I know I got a good high carbon steel blade for sure even if I have no idea what this thing's made out of yardsale three dollar butcher knife looks like carbon steel it's rusting up it's got some patina to it let me take a rock to it okay now I'm in business does it have a good 90-degree spine on it yep now in double business this is the right thickness it's pretty close as I got a good nice five to six inch blade on it yep okay now want that knife that's my factors now any knife that you have that's high carbon steel and will in fact what we'll do is we'll get another cheaper type knife out here we'll look at this more on bushcraft black again does it throw sparks yes it does okay is it throwing them as good as the butcher knife not quite but that could just be because the blade is like blue and not all this wore off yet but I know this will start it will create ignition with char cloth because I've done it so if I have a high carbon steel blade I'm going to be able to affect cognition that way and I'll show you how to do that right now up close hang tight guys okay so I have a charring 10 here it's got some char cloth in it right here so we'll pull that piece of char cloth out and that's what we're going to use for this demonstration now if I'm trying to strike sparks up my knife there's a couple ways you can do this you can hold the knife blade like this and strike it against the rock exactly like you would do a striker but I don't like that method very well because I've got my knife blade toward my hand if something were to slip I could cut myself if I have to wrap something around the blade I may not get a good grip on it so I would rather strike down on the blade to the charred material so we'll pull a piece of this charred material off of here and lay it to the side real quick just like this and what I like to do is lay that thing out and get as much surface area exposed as I can to catch my sparks and then kind of tack it down with my knife just like this now I'll lean my knife backwards just a little bit and I'll strike sparks on to the char cloth
just like that okay that out now let's look at the three hollered butcher knife we'll do the same thing get it out here pin it down with the blade hold on the handle push them down okay
we're on a fire all right now let's look at the pathfinder Scout bigger than the Pathfinder pls k one larger in blade size and blade length this is a six inch blade it's a little bit wider and so now the full flat grind but it does have that 90-degree spine it is three sixteenths it's just a little bigger more of a French trade or butcher knife style design alright sparks is going right by here here we go okay we got a char cloth on fire so you can see that a $40 knife will do it a three dollar knife will do it a $200 knife will do it it doesn't matter how much the knife costs it matters what the physical characteristics and capabilities are of that knife okay so what I want to do now real quick is I want to kind to kind of go through some knives with you guys one at a time show you knives that I trust doesn't mean that there's other knives on the market that aren't good but again if you're going to ask me what I think of this of that if you didn't see in this video that should give you an indication of what I think about it means I don't carry it alright anything by blind horse knives is going to be bone anything by hapless bush tools is going to be a good knife anything by Moore is going to be a good knife but it's not going to meet all of the criteria that we talked about some of them are not high carbon they're stainless and none of them are full tang alright so let's start off with the Morris the Mora bushcraft block is by far my favorite it's got a nice blue blade it's got a three quarter tang nice comfortable rubber over plastic handle here high carbon steel blade good 90-degree spine the blade on it's almost a little over four inches long and for me you know the minimum is about five but again this is not going to be my main knife so it doesn't have to be five inches this is another more this is the Mora companion another good knife about half a little over tang maybe 3/4 rubber over plastic handle you can see the blades a little bit less robust than the bushcraft block it's a little bit shorter it's not not as wide and it's about the same not quite the same thickness so this is a heavier knife than this one but does not cost more than this one both of them will do the job a knife I've been carrying a lot lately as a backup or carving type knife or bushcrafting is this martini and this was given to me by one of my instructors solid rubber handle three quarter inch tang molded over it's got a really nice 90-degree spine on it it's good and thick it's over 8 of an inch it might be close to 3/16 Scandinavian grande it's a very short blade it's only a little it's a little less than 4 inches I think so it's not going to be a main night for me but it is a great backup skinning carving and crafting knife for my pack this is the habilis butcher knife and this knife was designed directly after this knife this is a three dollar butcher knife from a yard sale this is the habilis butcher knife it was designed and made directly to mimic this knife because we knew there'd never be another one of these come along so we wanted something that was very close to an 18th century design with 18th century type handle materials and scales this one has one two three four five six pins on it so that it's more period-correct
for something along the 18th century lines solid hardwood handles they are flat as many of them were back then it does have the Pathfinder logo and the habilis Bush tool logo on it as well it's a nice Scandi grind and scanned effects it's got a little bit of a convex grind compound grind at the bottom of the Scandinavian grind it's got a good 90-degree spine on it and it's made out of 1095 so it definitely meets all the criteria definitely a good robust knife okay now let's get 2 BHK blind horse knife a blind horse obviously I've had a very very long relationship with blind or knives they're absolutely my favorite knife company Bar None in the world their knives have never failed me and everybody I've talked to says if they've ever had any issue with a knife that blind horse has replaced it without question so any guarantee like that is the guarantee I want they're fit and finish is perfect their shops really nice I've been to their shop so I know what it looks like I know what the craftsmanship is good american-made quality but again you're going to pay for american-made knives this is the Pathfinder Scout the one that I carry probably 95% of the time not because I don't like the PLS k1 but because this one has a little more versatility for what I do every day if I were going to have to choose one knife for an emergency it would be the PLS k1 that's what it was designed for this knife is more of a hunting skinning butchering type knife it's got a big 6 H butchering style blade on it European type French trade knife style blade 3/16 heavy heavy spine oh one tool steel curly maple handles it's just a really really nice heavy duty knife and I carried this one quite a bit the PLS k1 is the original Pathfinder knife that was made by blind horse knives Scandinavian grind blades about five and a quarter inches long it's got some jimping on the top of the blade here curly maple handles on this one like I said oh one tool steel heavy duty 90 degree spine this knife will do anything in the world that you want it to do and if you have it in if it's in the right hands of the person with the right skill it can do anything you want to do from fine carving to processing firewood this is the muck the Nemec with the Pathfinder logo on it that's made by blind horse Scandinavian ground Nemec style blade it's basically a short butcher knife and I think that's pretty much what nest Mehcad in mind when you had this knife made if you look at this knife compared to a larger butcher knife they're pretty much the same it's just shorter and squatty ER than a butcher knife it's got that same hump at the top so that it rides high over bone when you're cutting with it it's good for batani
I like this dished area right here because that forces a lot of forces a lot of pressure right here to the belly when you're trying to split wood and things like that with it so it's a really really good knife but remember with any knife you're going to about this much of your blade is where you're going to do 90% of your work you know the before you get to the upsweep on the belly is where you're going to 90% of your work when I see guys carving sticks and they're making points on sticks out here on the blade I know those guys don't know what they're doing because that area of your knife should be the most pristine area because that's what we can use to process game that's what you're going to use from very fine under cuts and notches and find carving tasks you don't want to use that for hogging material off to make points on sticks that's what this area of the knife is for okay just a little tidbit there the nest McKnight's are really really good all-around hunting type knife this is the blind horse bushcrafter great cat part style design blade cat part style really designed knife for the most part it's got this Inlet in the handle which makes it really comfortable for your finger it's got a nice round grip as my instructor chair jamie burly always says it's like a broom handle doesn't matter how you hold it it's always going to be comfortable in your hand and that's kind of one of the pluses to this knife for bushcrafting and things like that it's got a four inch blade on it like I said it's got a cup art design spear point blade on it this one happens to have a full flat grind I think the ones they sell have a hollow grind I'm not positive of that don't quote me on that and this one happens to have curly maple handles this is a really nice little knife that blind horse makes is the woodsman pro now I've carried this knife not as extensive as I carried the others but it is a really nice woodsy style design knife for hunting and trapping and things like that it's just not quite big enough for something to me to be beyond a carving knife or a skinning knife for a one tool type knife but it is a very good back up knife for the trapline for hunting for skinning and things like that and this is called the trapline companion now this knife has got about a four inch blade on this was an accidental knife this is a knife that was made another knife was messed up and this knife was ground out of it by Dan at blind horse knives and when he showed it to me I fell in love with him the reason I fell in love with it and decided to adopt it as the TLC is because it has a nice hollow grind which means it's going to stay razor sharp it's got a nice little drop point right here for skinning and making money cuts on furs and hides and things like that and it has that small kitchen knife like feel to it that makes it great for fine carving tasks and things like that so for making feather sticks for doing fine under cuts and notches and all those types of things this thing is like the Morra of the blind horse world except this full tang and it's high carbon steel with a 90 degree spine so it does everything for me if it needs to okay one thing I want to talk about real quick in this video as I see a lot of people talking about making feather sticks how well is the knife make feather sticks well depends again on how well you can handle the knife and what your skill level is a good sharp knife will make feather sticks obviously a thinner blade is going to make better feather sticks than a thicker blade so you have to understand the limitations of what you have but even a blade that is 3/16 or thick like the Pathfinder knife but it's got a big heavy Scandinavian grind on which makes it really good for processing wood and things like that and a good heavy-duty tool is not going to be as good for fine carving tasks as say this TLC or even this martini or Mora because the blades are thinner they have a sharper Scandinavian bevel to them and they're going to make those fine cuts this one is hollow ground so it's definitely going to make fine cuts all right but let's look at these knives and when you're making feather sticks you're not trying to you don't want this thing hanging out on a stump between your legs and you're trying to push the knife with both hands that's not the way to make feather sticks feather sticks are a fine finesse carving task I'll tell you nobody would complain about that butter stick okay out of a 3/16 inch blade with a heavy scanning grind on it that is a nice feather stick that will take flame very very quickly and that's the advantage of a feather stick is you have increased the surface area and made the material very thin so that it heats up quickly and combust faster okay guys well I appreciate joining for this video I turn today I wanted to go over my mentality with you or my line of thinking when it comes to noise I also wanted to talk you a little bit about understanding what you're looking at when you watch other people handling knives using knives reviewing knives and things like that again this is not a Bosch on any knife company it's not a Bosch on a You Tube reviewer I just want to educate the people who are watching my videos as to what you should be looking for and be sure that when you watch a review on any product whether it's a knife or a steel pot that that person has used that item and you can't say that you've used an item by taking it to the woods one time or for five minutes or five hours or likely even five days you need to use and abuse that item before you can really say what is worthiness is to have in someone's kit I'm Dave camera at five fire school I appreciate your views your support everything you do for me for my school for my family I'll be back another video soon as I can thanks guys you
About the Author
wildernessoutfitters
From the lore of bushcraft to all things related to self-sustainability, the Pathfinder vision is to pass on the knowledge of outdoor self-reliance. Providing basic to advanced self-reliance training and survival gear, our goal is to offer both practical knowledge and survival gear that will stand the test of time. From emergency preparedness to sustainability, the Pathfinder way is to share and educate.
Here you can explore the world of survival knives, survival kits and simple tips on outdoor self-reliance. We are always learning and enjoy passing on the knowledge we acquire.
There is no substitute for having a plan in the event of the unexpected.
More articles from this author
- Black Drawing Salve
- Pace Counting and Dead Reckoning
- Bullet Proof Bushcraft on a Budget Long Guns
- The Witchery of Archery Part 3 Arrows and Arrow Flight
- Sling Bow Final Modification How To
- Journal of the Yurt 29 Q&A
- African Bird Trap
- Journal of the Yurt 37 Stock and Trade
- A Common Man Sustainability Cross Bow
- Modular Packing Discussion
- Rendering Birch Oil, As taught at the PF Pioneer Class by Joe Kellam
- Modern Trapping Series Part 41 Raccoon caught in a False Drain Set.wmv
- Shooting the Recurve Bow (Beginners) with Iris Canterbury.wmv
- Journal of the Yurt 2
- Journal of the Yurt 7
- NINJA SHELTER
- Spring pole Bowdrill Ember
- Cooking Tips and Quick Treats (Garlic Rice and Smoked Sausage)
- 5 Navigation Techniques Every Woodsman Should Know
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 5 (Wool Blankets)
- Journal of the Yurt 38 A day in the Life
- Trail Tarp Set up Options Part 1
- Cast Iron Cooking Part 2 Pork Mash Cassarole
- Creating a Fire with Aspen Punk wood and the Sun
- Modern Trapping Series Part 44 Skinning a Mink
- Shoes a Simple Improvised Pattern
- Pathfinder Advanced Class Florida Everglades
- Blacksmithing Part 14 Making Nails
- Bow Saws, a Common Man Bush Tool
- Bow Fishing Equipment Explained
- Kid Testing of the Lightning Strike Fire System
- The Osage Bow Part 6 (Draw Wt and Shooting)
- Modern Camp Set up
- Utilizing Resources Tallow Making Lye Soap
- Apache Foot Trap
- H&R 12 GA Buttstock Mods
- The Quickie Poachers Camp.wmv
- Blacksmithing Part 7 Making Cooking Irons
- Tablet Weaving
- 21st Century Longhunter Processing Tinder Fungus for Use
- Neolithic and Ancient Roman Fire Methods
- Eastern Woodland Trees and their Uses 1
- Using a Compass to take a Visual Bearing
- Journal of the Yurt 24
- Journal of the Yurt 36 12GA R&D
- Kit Mentality the Basics
- Blacksmithing Part 11 Forging a Knife Step 1.wmv
- Beginners Knife Safety Part 1
- Commercial: Dave Canterbury "Makes fire with his beard"
- Modern Trapping Series Part 23 Skinning the Catch
- Starting your net
- Wood Craft on a Budget Part 6 Cookware 2
- Jam Knots 3 that do it all
- Slingshot Forging
- Pathfinder Product Review 11 Flint Knapping Tools
- On the Waters Edge Part 4 Sling Spear
- Pathfinder Product Review #3 The Emergency Shelter Kit
- Pathfinder Product Review #5 The Nessmuk Hand Axe
- Throwing a Knife
- Packable Draw Knife and a Simple Vise for the Woodland Projects
- Bushcraft Kit Shot Show Intro
- Shooting Vanes from a Traditional Bow
- Journal of the Yurt 1
- Testing a Common Man's Survival Bow.wmv
- Diary of the Tipi 4 Primitive Archery Repair Kit.wmv
- ROKON Series Intro
- Cornish Hen Cassarole in an Aluminum Dutch Oven
- Super Shelter Modified for the Eastern Woodlands Part 1
- Improvised Zip Lock Compass.wmv
- 21st Century Longhunter The Versatile #110 Conibear
- Journal of the Yurt 31 Folders and MT's
- Condor Greenland Axe Pathfinder Product Review #12
- Packing for a Trip the 3 C's Concept
- How to get your pattern for a wool blanket shirt
- Brain Tanning Hair On Part 1
- SlingBow DVD
- Fleshing hides: The easy way
- Butcher Knives a Frontier Standard.wmv
- Reviewing a Survival Shotgun Set up.wmv
- Long Guns, Canoe Guns&Testing the Wax Slug 12 GA Load
- Stronghold Haywire Klamper Projects
- Asian Monitor Trap
- NO FAK First Aid Kit
- Journal of the Yurt 6
- Walnut Blueing an H&R 12GA
- Modern Trapping Part 4 Foot Hold Traps
- Mora Camping Axe "Dont save it for the wimpy wood!"
- Quick Run Down of the Final 5 C's of the 10 PC Kit
- 1751 Belt Ax Kit Project Part 2
- Fire Tube
- Journal of the Yurt 28 Spices
- Journal of the Yurt 26 My Shooting Bag
- Utilizing Resources, Glass Arrow Heads
- Iris Intro1.wmv
- PF Cook System for 2017
- Primal Gear Unlimited Compact Folding Survival Bow
- Corn Meal Mush
- Journal of the Yurt 9
- Emergency Fire-Foul Weather
- Boot Care and Boot discussion
- Pathfinder Pocket Hunting System Promo
- Auger Adapter DIY
- Making a Scrap Yard Folding Knife Part 1
- Bug Dope
- Tools and Honing Discussion
- Pine Sap Accelerant
- Journal of the Yurt 5
- On The Waters Edge Part 8 Fileting a Fish
- American Mod to the Asian Bird Trap Snare
- Modern Trapping Series Part 26 Prepping the hide for Tanning
- Modifying Brass Shotgun Shells to accept the 209 Primer.wmv
- Survival Bows (Shaping and Floor Tillering the Stave)
- Woodcrafters Bench Part 4 Spoon Mule Attachment
- Pathfinder School Self Reliance Projects Update 2
- Char Cloth and Ignition Sources
- Wool Blankets Winter Camping Part 2
- Making Woodland Furniture The Dove Tail Joint Lash
- Fire School Part 9 Bowdrill Ember from Horsehoof Fungus
- American Yurt at the Pathfinder School Intro
- Journal of the Yurt 3 Making Hard Tack
- Cast Iron Cooking Part 1 Spicey Rice Dish
- Pathfinder Nessmuk Trail Tarp by Duluth Pack Co
- Take Down Bucksaw Project Wood Craft on a Budget Part 19
- 5 Min Shelter Option Double Wedge
- Swing Arm Cook System from Natural Materials
- Stump Anvil Improvements The Clave
- Throwing the Tomahawk
- Making Corn Flour Cereal.wmv
- Diary of the Tipi 8 Making Gourd Containers Part 1
- Starting Fire with Steel Wool and Ferro Rod
- NEW Gen 2 Small Bushpot
- Exploring the Whelen Lean Part 2
- Converting Your Percussion Cap to 209 SG Primer Ignition (Mag Spark)
- Over Night Scout
- Pathfinder Cribs The Pathfinder Yurt
- Survivability vs Sustainability.wmv
- Self Feeding Fire Part 1 Basic Bushcraft
- Simple Machines 3 Rope Spinner
- Bullet Proof Bushcraft on a Budget Cover
- Wood Craft on a Budget Part 10 Refurbishing Old Tools1
- Survival Basic Series DVD Part 5
- Pathfinder Product Review #14 New Mora Knives
- Addressing Snake Bites
- Top 5 Medicinal and Useful Plants of the Eastern Woodlands Part 1.wmv
- Poplar Dough Bowl Part 1
- Simple Camping Plow Points Part 1
- Clothing for the Cold
- Frontier Fire Methods 2.wmv
- Fishing Kit-Improvments Testing
- Modern Trapping Part 5 Intro to Snares and Snaring
- Equipment List Discussion for Pathfinder Basics
- Processing Small Game Pheasant
- Evolution of Survival
- Black Smithing Part 1 Making a quick Fire Striker from a File
- Modern Trapping Series Part 33 Using PVC in Sets
- Journal of the Yurt 8
- Journal of the Yurt 4
- Introducing the Pathfinder Scout Hawk
- Mini Inferno NEW PRODUCT
- The Common Man's Last Shot- Pocket Pistol
- Scout about and Bacon out
- Simple Bucket Pack Modification
- Navigation by Terrain Feature Association Part 1
- A Quick Bait holder for Catfishing
- Building Traps without Tools
- Journal of the Yurt 27 Securing More Meat
- The Witchery of Archery Remake Part 1 The Two Tracks Long Walker
- Pocket Hunter A Comprehensive Look at Design and Use
- Practicing Fire Methods 1
- Cabin Fever Part 20 Preserving Game meat in Winter
- Cast iron Cooking Part 3 Deep Fried Bass Filets
- Journal of the Yurt 50 Forging a Cookset.wmv
- Journal of the Yurt 23
- Tarp Setups and Research for System Development
- 5x5 Bushfit Kit
- A Review of 3 Pocket Tools
- Bushcraft Tools Fire Piston Test
- Sunfish Lunch'en
- Knapping a Quick Stone Point from a Flake.wmv
- PVC Bait stick Trap
- Bullet Proof Bushcraft on a Budget Containers
- Cooking Squirrel and Rice
- The Spider Shelter Part 3 Finishing up and heating it up!
- Fire School Part 14 Rub Cloth
- Journal of the Yurt 20
- Journal of the Yurt 18
- Journal of the Yurt 41 Pack Goat
- Materia Medica Yarrow 3
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 4 (Take Down BuckSaw for Ten Dollars)
- 5 Tools and Functions to manipulate Wood
- Brain Tanning Hair On Part 3
- Grand Opening Invite
- Common Man Self Reliance Bow #2
- Cabin Fever Part 29 ATV Scouting and my Kit 1
- 21st Century Longhunter Mentality and the 5C's
- NEW Council Tool Woodcraft Pack Axe
- 2 Dollar Knife and Sheath Project Part 1
- Reproducing an Antique Draw Shave Part 1
- Basic Multi Use Knots
- New Sling Bow
- Quick Fishing Kit from Common Materials
- Asian Trail Spring Trap
- Natural Cordage Part 2 The Process of Reverse Wrap 2 Ply Cordage
- Ignition Sources, My Belt Kit
- Bushcraft Kitchen Part 1
- Dressing for Cold Weather.wmv
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Building a Friction Fire Ember
- Torture Test of a Savotta Pack
- Wisdom of the Wall Tent Part 4 Junk on the Bunk
- Full Circle
- Carving a Noggen
- Canvas Ship Hammocks and Weaving a Clew
- Traditional Japanese Water Stone Sharpening
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Dakota Fire Hole
- Blacksmithing Part 39 Making a Portable Pit Forge
- Dream Hammock System
- Starting Fire with a Compass K&R Alpine
- 5 Wooden Tools
- New Jon Pack Woodsman’s Bed Sleeve
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft proofing and Reproofing
- Mushroom and Plant walk in Sweden
- Mora Adventure 2018 Short clip
- 5 Min Fire and Shelter Conversion.wmv
- Trap Comparison and Thought Process, Modern Trapping Series Part 43
- Simple Fencing
- Rendering and using Raccoon Fat
- Viking research
- Hickory Resources
- Bushpot Chicken and Dumplings
- Woodcrafters Bench Part 2
- 21st Century Longhunter The Oil Cloth Watch Coat
- Game Hooks
- Bill Hawk
- Pathfinder Product Review The JW Trekker
- Basic Camp Overnighter Part 3
- Next Fire Mentality
- 50 Dollar Tool Kit for Green Woodworking
- Pathfinder Product Review #6 The Duluth Pack PF Haversack.wmv
- Steam Bending Wood
- Water Filter Comparison
- Sling Bow (Bow Fishing Mod How To)
- Survival Bow Making(Making a Bow String)
- Making the Packable Draw Knife
- Making A Common Man's Broadhead
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 7 (The Blanket Pack)
- Exploring the Whelen Lean
- Blacksmithing on a Budget
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 6 (Cheap Small Game Snares)
- Materia Medica INFUSIONS The Woodsman's Expectorant 22
- Fire School Part 8 No Container Char
- Norlund Axes
- Using Flex Seal on a Canvas Pack
- Pathfinder Product review #4 The Pathfinder Trade Knife.wmv
- Knives and Processing Wood
- Axes and Hatchets Wood Craft on a budget Part 15
- Opinel Safety Mod and Penny Knives
- The M44 Mosin Nagant, A Common Man Rifle
- Simple Box Traps Live Rabbit Box
- Grass Thatching
- Frontier Fire Seminar from the Camping and Woodcraft Class
- Rocky Woodland Forge's Woodcraft Tool Kit
- Stack Pack by Short Lane Arms
- Restoring A Scrap Yard Wood Stove
- Diary of the Tipi 10 I love Fire! my EDC.wmv
- PFODJ Ep4 18th Century Woodsman Hunters Camp
- Camp Cookery Baked Rabbit
- Survival Pro Tips 1 Making Fire with an Empty Bic
- Simple Box Traps Mink Box
- Fire School Part 2 Bow Drill Lessons
- Meat Processing Tools
- Fire School Part 7 Strikers, Scapers, and Smooth Strokers
- Tools and Wood Processing
- Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 1.wmv
- Hush Puppies on the trail
- Blacksmithing Part 17 Scrap Yard Pick'en
- Hammock Chat
- Knife Making , Material Reduction Knife Start to Finish Part 1
- Belt Pouch EDC
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 3
- Using the H&R 12GA for a Muzzeloader
- Ultimate Survival Bows
- Journal of the Yurt 11 Hygiene
- Journal of the Yurt 10 Visit with Jeremy Janey PF School Intructor
- On the Waters Edge 13 Day 2 Mohawk Canoe
- Hygiene from Fire
- Wisdom from the Wall Tent Part 1
- Making a Common Man Limb Quiver for Hunting
- Coyote Consuming the Harvest
- Knife Care in the Field
- Hobo Stew and Corn Bread
- Bushpot Jambalaya and Hushpuppies
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 4
- Basic Camp Overnighter Part 1
- Axe Care Made Simple
- Bulletproof Bushcraft on a Budget Part 1
- Snares The Ugly Truth Modern Trapping Part 57
- Kit mentality Useage vs Investment
- Blacksmithing Part 36 The Wind Tunnel Forge
- New Primitive Technologies Discussion
- Blacksmithing Part 13 Forging a Knife Step 3 Heat Treat and Testing
- Fire Lay The Proper Construction and Ignition after a Night of Rain
- Fire Arms Combination for Long Term Sustainability
- Modern Trapping Part 29 Foothold Pocket Set
- Basic Knife Handling and Bush Craft Notches Part 1
- Blacksmithing Part 18 Making a Brake Drum Forge
- Bucking with a HB Cruiser Ax Wood Craft on a Budget Part 16
- Journal of the Yurt 12
- Reloading 12GA with (Pyrodex) Black Powder in the Field
- Skinning a Raccoon with Rope,Modern Trapping Part 32
- The Witchery of Archery Part 2 The Basics
- Honeysuckle resources and a quick update
- Survival Bows (Collecting the Stave, Improvised Draw Knife)
- Skinning a squirrel for a usable hide
- Blacksmithing Part 12 Forging a Knife Step 2 Material Reduction
- Evolution of the 10 C's Part 1
- Shelter Basic Tarp Setups 1
- Fire The Basic Class Presentation
- Mora Garberg Full Tang Discussion and Review
- NEW 2 1 Ltr Bushpot and 64 Oz Bottle
- Shelter Basic Tarp Setups and an E Fire 2
- Mora Dangler made simple
- Simple Machine Woodland Hoist
- Coyote It's whats for Lunch
- Shelter Basic Tarp Setups 3
- A Woodsmans Apothocary
- Wooden Pulleys and Lifting
- Deer Heart and Pepper Gravy Camp Cooking
- Simple Woodcraft Aids
- Overnight Pack Out
- Fire School Part 1 Bow Drill Lessons
- Collapsible Cast Iron Skillet DIY
- Quick Upload Extracting Pine Tar from Fat Wood
- Blacksmithing Part 15 Making tools for Spoons and Ladles
- Forging and making a Primitive Adze
- Trapping Season Prep and Primer Discussion
- Top 10 Non Firearm Meat Gathering Tools
- Haversack Kit
- Pathfinder Advanced Class 1_7_2010 MA, USA.wmv
- Squirrel Hunt with a Flintlock
- Best Medium Game Snare Modified figure 4 Trigger
- Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe
- Gig Discussion and Hunt with Weapon Vision Spear Cam
- 2 Dollar Knife and Sheath Project Part 2
- Go Ruck Rucker Review and Kit layout
- Bushcraft Breakfast Bannock
- On the Waters Edge Part 1 Compact Fishing Rods and Systems
- Toggle Trigger Fishing Variation
- Swiss Army Knife easy Ember , Fire Tips and Tricks
- Roycroft Pack Frame Part 3 Using Shelter Components
- Blacksmithing Part 4 Rounding and Drawing steel to make a Trap Stake
- Fire School Part 13 Ferro Rod Tips
- Tension Bending Pack Boards
- 12GA Shell Bag Contents and Discussion
- Bushpot Convection Oven
- Stretcher Bed Setup
- Pathfinder Folding Skillet
- Making Sweet Corn Bread Drop Biscuits
- Diary of the Tipi 2 Making Hide Glue.wmv
- Otzi s Knife Sheath
- Pathfinder Basic Survival Class Video Diary
- A Common Man's Grease Lamp
- Canterbury Camp Kitchen
- Rokon Winter Packout
- Blacksmith a Squirrel Cooker explained Part 47
- Leather Knife Scales
- M6 Scout Update Review
- The Osage Bow Part 1
- Basic Carving Kit
- Snow Shoes JMHO
- Simplicity
- Final Product Modified Kephart Bedroll by Duluth Pack
- Swedish Lap Vise
- Forging a Custom Carving Axe with Liam Hoffman Part 1
- Toggles The Woodsmans Friend
- Tarp Setups the Foresters Tent and the 4 W's
- Making a Blade Bowl Adze
- The osage Bow Part 4
- Taking a Bearing from your Map made easy
- Journal of the Yurt 43 Stock and Trade Part 2
- Survival JMHO
- Simple Camping Improved Pot Crane System
- Batoning Wood with your Knife
- Improving the Wax Slug Load for 12 GA and Black Powder Equivelant
- Modern Trapping Part 7 Bedding Foot Hold Traps
- Wisdom of the Wall Tent Part 3 Camp Tool Box
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 5
- Pine Crate Tool Chest
- Pathfinder School Basic Class Equipment List Rundown
- Diary of the Tipi 11 Care for a Smoothbore Flintlock.wmv
- Baking with a Plank and a Bushpot
- Wood Craft on a Budget Part 3 Sheath Knives Continued
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 3 (Food)
- Triple Barrel Shotgun PF Edition Intro
- Maul a good Learning Project
- Meat Preservation Concerns and Setting Snares
- PFODJ Ep 11 Wet Weather Fire Segment
- The Small Common Man Trapping Kit
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 2
- Simple Camping Connection Knots 3
- Pathfinder Outdoor Journal Ep1 FULL HD Episode
- Quick Review of the ILBE USMC Assault Pack and Sealine Insert Bag
- Simple Blade Grinding Jig
- Diary of the Tipi 12 Working with Natural Dyes Part 1.wmv
- PF SS Kettle
- Jeff White Bush Knife and a Wet wood Fire
- My Back Yard
- Iris Intro Video Part 2.wmv
- Thanks for Play'en, Bobcat in an MB 450 Released
- Kit Mentality Updates
- Bullet Proof Bushcraft on a Budget PVC Pack Frame
- The Osage Bow Part 5
- The Mocotaugan
- Pathfinder Knife Shop Introduction
- Deadliest Small Game Primitive Trap
- Saami Repair Kit
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit
- Stone and Bone (Utilizing Resources) Part 1
- No Map No Problem Part 2
- Arrow Making for the Common Man
- The Wish Bone Trigger Snare New
- Making a quick Spring Lathe
- Using the Slingshot to Hunt Bigger Game
- Bark Basket Part 1
- Scout Camp Common Man Black Powder Setup
- Collecting Back Sinew and Some Meat from a Roadkilled Deer
- Dakota Fire Hole Proper Construction and Use
- Artifact Quality Leather Work
- Bucket Making White Coopering
- PFODJ Ep 5 Axe Tomahawk Segment
- Reverse Figure 4 Dead fall Trigger
- Fire and Bushpots
- Shooting Shot from a 50 Cal BP Rifle
- Tarp Setups Modifed Plow Point
- 50 Cal Blue Ridge Mountain Flint Lock
- Remington Shotgun Model 1889 Double Barrel
- Shrink Pot 1
- Reflector Oven Bread
- Preping the Sling Bow for a Big Game Hunt
- Modern Trapping Coon in Beaver set
- Brimstone Matches and Next Fire Mentality
- No Map No Problem Part 3 Height and Distance
- Saw Maintenance 2 Wood Craft on a Budget Part 14
- SS Canteen Available NOW!~
- Identifiying Flint Chert and other Sparking Rocks
- Trap Sets The Step Down Set Modern Trapping Series Part 48
- Axe Selection and Use
- The Osage Bow Part 2
- Tomahawk from a Rasp Blacksmithing Part 46
- Making Pemmican
- Moonshine Why Carry
- Trailblazer Deliverables Basic Compass Use
- Making the Flemish Bow String in the Bush Part 2
- Simple Camping Hammock use with Wool Blankets
- Forging a Hook Knife
- Finishing a New Old Stock Mora 311
- Survival Basic Series DVD Part 1
- Sharpening an Axe with a Hardware Store Grind
- Putting a Handle on a Mora Blade Blank
- Simple Machine DIY Spring Hammer
- Forging a Tomahawk from a Rasp
- Feathersticks or Shavings
- 21st Century Longhunter Series Combustion
- Fire School Part 15 Pump Drill Fire,Learning the process
- Seneca Pack Frame
- Ever thought about this? Fire Tricks
- Sustainability Long Term,Modern Trapping Series Part 42
- Blacksmithing Part 2 The Folding Small Game Gambrel
- Double Bit Axes Wood Craft on a Budget Part 17
- Sleeping Gear JMHO
- Knapping Arrowheads From Glass Part 1
- Mora Bushcraft Pathfinder
- Making a Cook Tripod with a Chain
- One Match Fire for BSA Bushcraft
- Rope Bed Construction
- The Spider Shelter Part 4, Simple Improvments
- Quick and Easy Tensioner Knot for your Tarp Lines.wmv
- 10 Simple Knife Projects Part 1
- Lighting a Candle with Flint and Steel
- Winter Pack Out
- Utilizing Resources (Making Venison Jerky) Part 2
- Natural Cordage Part 1 Harvesting and Processing Materials
- Asian Bird Trap Laos
- Vines and Withies
- Woodman's Pal
- Five Tool Rule
- Prefered Clothing and Layering for the Woods
- Simple Shadow Navigation Part 1
- Brain Tanning Hair On Part 2
- R&D of the Kephart Bedroll by Dave Canterbury and Duluth Pack
- Light Weight Scouting Pack Set up
- Trapline Diary Part 1 Coon Cuffs
- Survival Basic Series DVD Part 2
- Pathfinder Basics Estimating Distance and Pace Count Lecture
- Super Shelter Modified for the Eastern Woodlands Part 2
- FULL TANG MORA Bushcraft Knife
- Beginners Knife Safety Part 2
- Survival Bows (The Tillering Process)
- Blacksmithing Part 6 Common Man Tools and lighting the Forge
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 2
- Sloyd Project 1 Fid
- On the Waters Edge, Trekken and Fishen
- Traditional Cold weather Hammocking
- Knife Making, Material Reduction Knife Start to Finish Part 3
- Trapline Journal Coyote in MB450
- Winterizing the Hammock for the Common Man
- Samick Sage Recurve 8pt Buck Kill
- Large Bushpot Intro
- Bucksaw Modifications
- Fatwood Collecting Processing Igniting
- Aussie Wool Blanket
- Assembling a Custom Classic in the Mora Factory
- Traditional Camp Pack weight
- PFODJ Ep 2
- Hook Knife Part 1
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 4
- 1908 A&F Cook Grate
- Nordic Pocket Saw
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 1
- PFODJ Ep 5 Moved from the Pay Channel
- PFODJ Progression of Meat Source Gathering
- Experiments in Viking Navigation Viking Sun Stone
- Turkey Tail Materia Medica
- Hook Knife Part 2
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 3
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 2
- Double on Coons
- The Woodsmans Pantry Plus and the Woodland Chef Cook Kit
- Cooking Bannock in the Bush Pot with a Pack Grill Rack
- Fence Line Snares for Coyote
- Forged Scissors Part 2
- Forged Scissors Part 1
- Pathfinder Scout Hammock
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 5 Raccoon Meatloaf
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 2 Firearms
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 7 Fleshing Hides
- WInter Clothing Discussion
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 4 Tail Stripping
- Hammock Chair Hunting Seat
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 1
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 6 Single Shot Maintenance
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 8 Pocket Sets
- Making a Holiday Wreath
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 9 Making Kvass
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 3 Trash Panda
- 110 For Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 13 Wood Stoves
- Morakniv Carbon Steel Garberg
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 14 Releasing a Domestic Animal
- Z Drag with wooden Pulleys
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 12 Log Crossing Set
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 11 Chasing Mink
- Exotac Products and Titan Lighter tips
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 10 Mapping the Creek Bed
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 15
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 16 Last day for a few
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 18 Buck Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 17 Hidden Woodsman Pack
- Bushcrafting a Tarp Clip
- DD Tents
- Neck Knife to Carry or Not to Carry
- Blanket Pin Tripod
- Comprehensive Bow Drill
- Hibiscus Cordage
- The Versatile Marline Spike Hitch
- Hammock Chair Terrapin Outfitters
- Sticky Rice
- Udemy Intro Video
- Conserving the Bic in an emergency
- LL Bean Continental Ruck Sack
- Navigation The X Box Exercise
- Cave Man Conibear Updated
- Limb line Hook Set Device from natural materials
- Solar Embers without Char or Fungus
- Packing up the raised Bed Camp
- Raised Bed Emergency Shelter
- Basket Trap for Crayfish
- Making a Sun Compass
- Ottomani Sun Compass
- Dutchwaregear Chameleon Hammock and Xeon Tarp
- Tulip Poplar Knife Sheath
- Shadow Board Direction Finding
- Dirty by design
- Orienting a Map without a Compass
- Mushroom Foraging Part 2
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Crane
- Paracord Hammock
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Quickly Deployable Ridgeline
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Hanging Camp Gear
- Tighten a Shear Lash Easily
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Tripod
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 90 Degree Spine
- Mushroom Foraging
- Broiling Fish with Grill Racks and the SRO Monthly Special
- Exerpt on Basket Weaving at the Bushcraft 101 Class
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Double Prusik Tensioning System
- Week Long Training Loadout
- Lunch and the Base Camp Cookset
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 5 Navigational Aids
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The Angular Advantage
- Last Shadow First Shadow Method
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Improved Fire Starting
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Hanger
- Tulip Poplar The Best Eastern Woodland Bushcraft Resource
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Bark Candle Lantern
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 6
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The JB Figure 4 Variant
- Mushroom Foraging Part 3
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 3
- 5 Minutes to better Bushcraft other uses for Puffball Mushroom
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 7
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 5
- Fried Puff Ball Mushrooms
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 4
- Using a Strop to Clean, Sharpen, and Hone your Blades
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 1
- Best Survival Deadfall Trigger PDF4
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 2
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 9
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 8
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 10
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 11
- Blood Trailing a Deer
- M6 Takedown Rifle Comparison to the Springfield Scout
- Safe Release of Non Target Species
- French Press Testing and Protyping
- Simple Camp and a Test of the Wildward Lavu
- Pocket Stove Comparison