Pathfinder Outdoor Journal Ep1 FULL HD Episode
Description
http://www.thepathfinderstore.com
Dave Canterbury, David Canterbury, The Pathfinder School,Bush Craft ,Survival skills, Historical Lore, Primitive Skills, Archery, Hunting, Trapping, Fishing, Navigation, Knives, Axes, Fire, Water, Shelter, Search and Rescue
Tags: Bushcraft,Survival,David Canterbury,Dave Canterbury,Pathfinder,The Pathfinder School,Archery,Hunting,Fishing,Camping,Primitive Skills,Fire,Water,Shelter,Navigation,First Aid,Search and Rescue,Signaling,Prepper,Preparedness,Self Reliance,Survivability,The 10 C's,Knives,Axes,Saws,Bow Drill,Ferrocerium Rod,Ferro Rod,Tarp,Hammock,Canteen,Cooking,Longhunter,Trapping,Survival Skills (TV Genre)
Video Transcription
[Music]
[Applause]
hey I'm country backwoods and hungry I spend every Sunday just living good a little hunting on the weekend with this episode of Pathfinder outdoor journal is being brought to you by self-reliance Outfitters the Pathfinder School Duluth pack battle horse knives short lane arms lansky survival resources Carbon TV and survival life from hunting to fishing to camping to survival self-reliance Outfitters has the quality outdoor gear to help you and your family make the most of your next outdoor adventure visit us online at WWF reliance Outfitters calm outdoor gear for outdoor people
at the Pathfinder school in Southeast Ohio we trained hundreds of people each year in short-term emergency survival emergency preparedness self-reliance and sustainability we trained individuals families and groups with low instructor to student ratios to guarantee the best possible training environment for your money to join us for an upcoming class please visit our website at the Pathfinder school llc.com Duluth pack handcrafted in Duluth Minnesota since 1882 true outdoorsman like Dave Canterbury have been using in our canvas and leather products for over 130 years our american-made time-tested craftsmanship makes Duluth pack the only gear you'll need for your next adventure hunting fishing bushcrafting camping canoeing business gear backpacks all this and more at Duluth pack.com southeast Ohio at the base of the Appalachian foothills every year here at the Pathfinder school we train several hundred people and everything from short-term survival all the way to long term sustainable self-reliance skills like blacksmithing and traffic stay with me as we step back in time to the days of Daniel Boone to the days of George Washington Sears or Nesmith the days of Horace Kephart and move forward into the time of Fred bear while we learn and gain our Doctorate and woodsy knowledge per se the frontiersman of the past can teach us a lot we live in a world today of gear and gadget REE where the norm is a compound but when a pair of binoculars and with a GPS and a nice big tree stand I'd like to move back in time and look at the gear accoutrements and equipment that we're carried by our ancestors so that we can better understand what's truly necessary for us to live off the land long term or short term and make us more wilderness self-reliant I think it's important that we understand the terminology of survival survival is a term that's thrown around fairly loosely nowadays and in the truest sense of the word survival means the chance of eminent life or death if I don't do this or that my life is immediately in danger what that boils down to is protecting core temperature I have to stay warm but not let myself get too warm I have to stay cool but not let myself get too cool and that's the important aspect of survival that we need to understand right off the bat because everything encompasses core temperature control in a looser term the word survival can also mean living off the land day-to-day to affect your survival needs over time things will change over time in the immediate sense of the word we have to protect our body's core temperature lots of things go into that including water including food including shelter including fire but in the longer term sensitive word we also have to provide constant water constant food medicine self a shelter longer-term all of those things it compass a longer-term sustainability or self-reliance and that's what I want you to understand our forefathers our ancestors were very good at understanding what it took to become wilderness self-reliant and that's what I want to talk about with you today so I think the first thing we need to discuss in this series is we need to discuss what I call the five C's of survivability if you look back in time even further than Daniel Boone if you look back - OH - the ice man who was frozen in the Swiss Alps when he died thirty five hundred to five thousand years ago during the beginning of the Copper Age he had five items on him that were common to all of the other people throughout history that we're going to look at those five items are a cutting tool a combustion device for making fire some type of cover element to be able to effectively keep yourself away from the weather and provide a microclimate of warmth a container that he could carry water over distance disinfect his water or that he could make medicines or food in and then cordage and cordage is very important because Cornish helps affect a lot of other things and cordage is very difficult to make in mass quantity off the landscape without a great amount of time expenditure and that's the importance of these five items more than anything else is that they are all difficult to reproduce from the landscape they take a certain specialized material and a certain specialized skill set in order to reproduce them properly depending on the environment you live in so these five C's we're going to discuss in depth one at a time so let's take a few minutes to discuss these five items in the criteria that these five items should meet for a basic survival type needs so let's start by discussing our knife our knife is a very important tool in most woodsmen carry one a belt knife is a very important asset for lots of things in a survival scenario from processing wood to processing game and building all the things that you want to build the construction will begin with cutting that you may have to use your knife for if you don't have a secondary alternate cutting tool like an axe I like to carry a knife that's at least five inches long I like that knife to be 5 inches long because I figure that a four inch log is going to be structurally sound if I'm going to have to baton this through something to cut a tree down that's four inches or to split a piece of four-inch wood which is point large enough to be fuel for my fire then I want something hanging out the other end once this knife gets buried into that log I can also use a wooden wedge to split that down with and we'll talk about that later as well but if I'm batani my knife I want something sticking out the front end that's why the five inches is so important anything over about six inches becomes more of a chopping type device and you don't have as much fine carving control anything less than four or five inches anything less than five really it's going to be too small for some of the tasks you may need it for if it's the only cutting tool that you're carrying it needs to have that 90-degree hard spine on it what I mean by that is it can't be rolled over on that edge to give you comfort when you're pushing down on with your thumb it has to be a hard 90 degree spine so that it will readily remove material from a fair cerium rod force fire-starting and we'll talk about that in just a few minutes it should be a high carbon steel non stainless unless you're on a coastal area where stainless is very important high carbon steel will give you more flexibility in that it will be easier for your sharpen in the wild it will also give you the ability if it's hard enough to strike a flint rock or stone or chert or something like that off the back of your knife and drive sparks from the back here as an emergency fire starting back up we want this knife to be non coated we don't want some type of powder coating on this knife again because we need to be able to use the spine both for scraping and for a striker so we don't want anything coating this knife that's going to prevent that from happening and then we want this knife to be full tang and that means that it's one solid piece of metal with the handles bolted to it or the scales pinned or bolted to the metal that way if something happens to these handles we still have the full-length knife and we can just wrap it with something to make a comfortable handle but if we don't have that full tang and we have a rat tail Tang or just a smaller piece of metal going back into the handles and we break that knife our breaking point generally will be at the big end of the handle area here and that's going to considerably shortened our blade if we have to tie this to a stick to enable it to be still used as a knife or a cutting tool of some sort so those are the criteria I look at when I'm looking at a blade that I'm going to carry on my belt let's next discuss combustion for a moment the most modern tool that we have available to us today for a reliable fire starting implement is the ferrocerium rod also known as the Ferro rod this is a fairly large barrel rod you can get them in many sizes from very small to fairly large this one is about 4 inches by 1/2 inch and I would suggest that you carry the largest rod you're comfortable carrying because you want that maximum surface area when you're striking it with your blade to remove the maximum amount of material that you can from the rod and that's the important understanding is that the way a ferrocerium rod works is it's made of multiple metals that will burn readily when you combine the friction of removing the material with the material that becomes the fuel with oxygen and the air which makes that material combust and it will burn at 5,000 degrees or there abouts when it comes off the end of this rod so the more material that you can remove the more sparks are the more hot molten material you're going to have landing in here would be fire or tinder bundle or bird nest and that's an important thing to understand and that's where that 90 degree spine on that knife comes in because you really want that thing be able to drive material off the end of this rod without a whole lot of effort and if you've got this rod and you understand the materials around you your resources and you have the correct blade or the correct striking device for this rod you should just about be able to start fire in any weather condition so let's talk about containers the criteria for a good container is number one that it's made of metal it needs to be able to withstand the flames of being put in the fire I want to be able to collect my water in this container take the lid off and place this into the fire to disinfect my water by boiling the CDC and the Wilderness Medical Society both agree that the safest way to create potable water is to filter and then boil so I'm always going to boil my water if I have the option collected from a native source a wide mouth on that container makes that job much easier than a small amount and then I also want a good seal on that thing so it's not gonna leak when I'm running around now if my container has some type of nesting cup like this canteen does or some water bottles then I can also use this multifunctional e as a chamber for making char cloth and talk about that later it's important that everything you carry be multifunctional this container should be able to make your water potable carry your water over distance create medicine if needs be cook your food if it has to and also be able to do things like irrigate wounds by using gravity and water to flush out a fresh wound of some kind so it becomes a very multifunctional piece of your gear and it needs to be heavy-duty our cover element is one of our most important parts of our kit it provides the microclimate that's going to protect us from the weather in an emergency situation if we have to spend a night or more in a woodland environment the shelter components that I carry are made up of two things they're made up of a wool blanket and an oilskin tarp the reason I choose the wool blanket over a sleeping bag is that wool is the only material that will retain about 85% of its insulative value even if it's soaking wet and that's an important factor to understand when you're picking gear that you're going to carry because that extra insulated value when something is wet can mean a great deal a difference on a cold wet night the wool blanket that we're carrying is merino wool it's 100% wool it's important to understand that 100% wool is what you're looking for because that's going to retain the insulating value even if it's wet combinations of wool are going to give you lesser retention of insulation so 100% wool is important this blanket is fairly lightweight it's more of a three-season type blanket if it were winter I'd be carrying something heavier weight like a Hudson Bay weight or a thick heavy wool blanket this one's a little thinner I have my ax tucked into it I haven't rolled up on the bottom of my backpack this is a queen-size blanket that is the other important criteria besides one percent wool for this blanket is that it needs to be queen-size so that I can basically roll into this blanket and create multiple layers of cover to trap warm air between the layers and keep myself nice and warm and nice and dry if the weather were to drop even in a early spring or fall time environment as far as the main cover element or your tarp you could choose to use this in bed roll fashion on the ground or you could choose to set it up into a shelter configuration and mine has just rolled up basically taco it into my bag and my water bottle sits inside of it it's an 8 feet by 8 feet piece of oilskin cloth that has tie outs it has 16 tie out points sewn into it it's very lightweight I think the weight of this total is about 4 pounds for this 8 by 8 tarp but again oilskin is going to give you maximum protection better than SIL nylon of any kind it's also going to give you that better durability that you're looking for the smaller your kit becomes
the easier it is for you to carry single items that may weigh a little bit more if I'm only carrying five to ten items in my kit I can stand for them to be a little heavier than if I'm carrying 25 or 30 the last piece of the five seas of survivability is cordage cordage is important for bindings lashings for building lots of things that will help you affect survival both short-term medium and long-term and the only criteria for this cords really is that it can be broken down into smaller fibers so it needs to be a rope type Cori's that is woven from at least three strands this is number 36 tarred mariners bank line it can be broke down into three smaller fibers number 36 is about three hundred and twenty pound test and you get several hundred feet of it on a one pound roll so you're carrying one pound of weight for an awful lot of versatile cordage and that's an important thing to understand when you are going to use it in these type applications just a piece of cotton twine or jute twine is not going to do near as well for you as something like this
battle horse knives are heirloom quality knives built for the outdoorsman by outdoorsmen with years of experience battle horse makes the best quality knives on the market today and stand behind their knives with a 100 percent lifetime guarantee from the PLS case scout to the trapline companion to the Nessman and everything in between bolivars can make a knife to fit your needs whether I'm hunting fishing trapping or just recreational camping a battle horse knife is always on my side with everything from rimfire cartridges in 22 long-rifle to 17 HMR to centerfire pistol cartridges in 38 caliber to 45 acp the greatest versatility with the short lane arm sub-caliber adapter is an 8 inch rifled adapter models you can match your sidearm to your 12-gauge shotgun with an 8 inch rifle adapter to make it even more versatile than a shotgun alone hi I'm John McCain from survival resources we specialize in custom survival kits all the components necessary to build your own survival kit and emergency preparedness products check us out at survival resources com as we step back in time and look at accoutrements and equipment of our forefathers of people's in the past one of the most romantic things in the survival in bushcraft community is primitive fire friction fire and the bow drill fire would have been the common method of friction fire in the Eastern woodlands by native peoples of the Americas and there's really no big secret to making friction fire there's three main input variables that you have to control that is the material your form and the amount of downward pressure and friction applied to the board into the top block to find the proper material for a bow-drill fire you don't need to know every tree in The Woodlands you need to understand the properties of what you're looking for what you're looking for is a softwood that's a very lightweight that you can put your thumb into and it leaves an imprint in the board a thumbnail impression where you pushed into the board that will give you the proper material you can make the board and the spindle from the same material these are both tulip poplar which is actually a magnolia it's also called yellow poplar Daniel Boone's canoe was made from the yellow poplar the bow that we have is also made out of tulip poplar and it's just a straight piece so we're going to put our spindles to the outside and then we need a bearing block which is just another hard piece of wood to push down on the top that's harder than the rest of the components so that it doesn't wear and cause friction in the top of the spindle as we want all of our friction in the bottom of the spindle so what I'm going to do today is I'm going to kind of walk you through the basic form of creating an ember we're also going to talk about the basic construction of the bird nest one of the most important components of friction fire when making fire with an ember that's created by friction is the bird nest that you're going to place into your fire leg once you've blown it into flame and this is probably the second biggest failure point that I see at the pass finer school from students once you get used to the mechanics of the bow drill and how to create the set you can fairly readily create a call once you do that you have to be able to put that into a material bundle that you can blow into flame and effect ignition and that's the tricky part you've got to have material that's fine medium and coarse but you've also have to have something that's going to be highly combustible and inner barks work really well for that as well as outer bark from some trees this is the inner bark of the tulip poplar or the yellow poplar so we're using that yellow poplar throughout this set to make our fire so we've got one tree and we understand that tree we can make friction fire we just have to find something harder or our bearing block an oak hickory beech yeah blue beach or Ironwood muscle woods as some people call it all of those are very hardwoods and will work well for your top block that your entire set other than that can be made from the yellow poplar so once we have stripped this bark inner bark out of the tree we have to process it down when I say process it down I mean that we have to shred it and we have to make sure that we have fine coarse and medium materials and anything that comes off of this bark during the shredding process we want to capture on something so what we're going to do is we're gonna bring our haversack over here close to us and as we shred this we're going to catch that material on the haversack flap so as we begin to shred this material finer and finer you're going to see that they're going to be a lot of materials fall off and be caught on to this haversack and you can see all these fine materials those materials are what we want in the middle of our bird nest and we'll save some of this aside and we'll collect all of this fine material here and we're going to put that in the center of our bird nest that's going to be the material that has the most combust ability because it's going to be the finest material we have [Music]
[Applause]
hey I'm country backwoods and hungry I spend every Sunday just living good little fish a little hunting on the weekend with a bow obviously back in the world
Aaron nauman baby once the bundles on fire we want to turn it over on itself and put it in our fire light as we walk through the past we're going to notice the commonality in the five Cs within the kiss of our ancestors beyond that the one commonality will always be a way to secure food or will you secure meat whether it was fishing hunting or trapping for the long term all of them carried some implement whether it be the bow whether it be a shotgun or rifle or something in between they all carried something to secure meat sources and that is an important understanding for long-term sustainability we have to not only have our doctorate and woodsy knowledge and understand the resources around us but we also have to be able to secure meat sources in the end you
you
this week's survival tip on Pathfinder outdoor journal is brought to you by Carbon TV on this week's outdoor survival tip we're going to talk about the proper use of the ferrocerium run stay tuned our first step in proper ignition is to understand the material that we're trying to combust we need to use something that's highly combustible that's dry and has lots of fine fibers and surface area to catch our molten sparks coming from the ferrocerium rod once we have that under control and we have a proper nest of material or a proper bundle of that material we can lay that aside then we need to understand that we have to have a sharp 90-degree edge on something harder than the rod that could be our knife that could be some type of designated striker or that could be some piece of glass a rock that's harder than the metal in this rod and glass quartz Flint will all work for that its purpose the next thing that we need to understand is we want to pull the rod toward us with the sharp edge of our striker against the rod like this we don't want to move our knife and push into our tinder bundle we want to anchor ourselves well and pull against our striking device once we have processed our tinder material and gotten our fine fibers ready we can put that at the base of our fire lay anchor our hand well and use the rod to pull back away from the striking device that will give us almost instant ignition folks I'm Dave Canterbury with the Pathfinder school and Pathfinder outdoor journal I want to sincerely thank you for taking time out of your day to watch this show I hope you learned something do me a favor take a child to the woods and help him gain his doctorate and woodsey knowledge god bless you we'll see on the next episode of Pathfinder outdoor journal [Applause]
[Music]
About the Author
wildernessoutfitters
From the lore of bushcraft to all things related to self-sustainability, the Pathfinder vision is to pass on the knowledge of outdoor self-reliance. Providing basic to advanced self-reliance training and survival gear, our goal is to offer both practical knowledge and survival gear that will stand the test of time. From emergency preparedness to sustainability, the Pathfinder way is to share and educate.
Here you can explore the world of survival knives, survival kits and simple tips on outdoor self-reliance. We are always learning and enjoy passing on the knowledge we acquire.
There is no substitute for having a plan in the event of the unexpected.
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- Opinel Safety Mod and Penny Knives
- The M44 Mosin Nagant, A Common Man Rifle
- Simple Box Traps Live Rabbit Box
- Grass Thatching
- Frontier Fire Seminar from the Camping and Woodcraft Class
- Rocky Woodland Forge's Woodcraft Tool Kit
- Stack Pack by Short Lane Arms
- Restoring A Scrap Yard Wood Stove
- Diary of the Tipi 10 I love Fire! my EDC.wmv
- PFODJ Ep4 18th Century Woodsman Hunters Camp
- Camp Cookery Baked Rabbit
- Survival Pro Tips 1 Making Fire with an Empty Bic
- Simple Box Traps Mink Box
- Fire School Part 2 Bow Drill Lessons
- Meat Processing Tools
- Fire School Part 7 Strikers, Scapers, and Smooth Strokers
- Tools and Wood Processing
- Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 1.wmv
- Hush Puppies on the trail
- Blacksmithing Part 17 Scrap Yard Pick'en
- Hammock Chat
- Knife Making , Material Reduction Knife Start to Finish Part 1
- Belt Pouch EDC
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 3
- Using the H&R 12GA for a Muzzeloader
- Ultimate Survival Bows
- Journal of the Yurt 11 Hygiene
- Journal of the Yurt 10 Visit with Jeremy Janey PF School Intructor
- On the Waters Edge 13 Day 2 Mohawk Canoe
- Hygiene from Fire
- Wisdom from the Wall Tent Part 1
- Making a Common Man Limb Quiver for Hunting
- Coyote Consuming the Harvest
- Knife Care in the Field
- Hobo Stew and Corn Bread
- Bushpot Jambalaya and Hushpuppies
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 4
- Basic Camp Overnighter Part 1
- Axe Care Made Simple
- Bulletproof Bushcraft on a Budget Part 1
- Snares The Ugly Truth Modern Trapping Part 57
- Kit mentality Useage vs Investment
- Blacksmithing Part 36 The Wind Tunnel Forge
- New Primitive Technologies Discussion
- Blacksmithing Part 13 Forging a Knife Step 3 Heat Treat and Testing
- Fire Lay The Proper Construction and Ignition after a Night of Rain
- Fire Arms Combination for Long Term Sustainability
- Modern Trapping Part 29 Foothold Pocket Set
- Basic Knife Handling and Bush Craft Notches Part 1
- Blacksmithing Part 18 Making a Brake Drum Forge
- Bucking with a HB Cruiser Ax Wood Craft on a Budget Part 16
- Journal of the Yurt 12
- Reloading 12GA with (Pyrodex) Black Powder in the Field
- Skinning a Raccoon with Rope,Modern Trapping Part 32
- The Witchery of Archery Part 2 The Basics
- Honeysuckle resources and a quick update
- Survival Bows (Collecting the Stave, Improvised Draw Knife)
- Skinning a squirrel for a usable hide
- Blacksmithing Part 12 Forging a Knife Step 2 Material Reduction
- Evolution of the 10 C's Part 1
- Shelter Basic Tarp Setups 1
- Fire The Basic Class Presentation
- Mora Garberg Full Tang Discussion and Review
- NEW 2 1 Ltr Bushpot and 64 Oz Bottle
- Shelter Basic Tarp Setups and an E Fire 2
- Mora Dangler made simple
- Simple Machine Woodland Hoist
- Coyote It's whats for Lunch
- Shelter Basic Tarp Setups 3
- A Woodsmans Apothocary
- Wooden Pulleys and Lifting
- Deer Heart and Pepper Gravy Camp Cooking
- Simple Woodcraft Aids
- Overnight Pack Out
- Fire School Part 1 Bow Drill Lessons
- Collapsible Cast Iron Skillet DIY
- Quick Upload Extracting Pine Tar from Fat Wood
- Blacksmithing Part 15 Making tools for Spoons and Ladles
- Forging and making a Primitive Adze
- Trapping Season Prep and Primer Discussion
- Top 10 Non Firearm Meat Gathering Tools
- Haversack Kit
- Pathfinder Advanced Class 1_7_2010 MA, USA.wmv
- Squirrel Hunt with a Flintlock
- Best Medium Game Snare Modified figure 4 Trigger
- Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe
- Gig Discussion and Hunt with Weapon Vision Spear Cam
- 2 Dollar Knife and Sheath Project Part 2
- Go Ruck Rucker Review and Kit layout
- Bushcraft Breakfast Bannock
- On the Waters Edge Part 1 Compact Fishing Rods and Systems
- Toggle Trigger Fishing Variation
- Swiss Army Knife easy Ember , Fire Tips and Tricks
- Roycroft Pack Frame Part 3 Using Shelter Components
- Blacksmithing Part 4 Rounding and Drawing steel to make a Trap Stake
- Fire School Part 13 Ferro Rod Tips
- Tension Bending Pack Boards
- 12GA Shell Bag Contents and Discussion
- Bushpot Convection Oven
- Stretcher Bed Setup
- Pathfinder Folding Skillet
- Making Sweet Corn Bread Drop Biscuits
- Diary of the Tipi 2 Making Hide Glue.wmv
- Otzi s Knife Sheath
- Pathfinder Basic Survival Class Video Diary
- A Common Man's Grease Lamp
- Canterbury Camp Kitchen
- Rokon Winter Packout
- Blacksmith a Squirrel Cooker explained Part 47
- Leather Knife Scales
- M6 Scout Update Review
- The Osage Bow Part 1
- Basic Carving Kit
- Snow Shoes JMHO
- Simplicity
- Final Product Modified Kephart Bedroll by Duluth Pack
- Swedish Lap Vise
- Forging a Custom Carving Axe with Liam Hoffman Part 1
- Toggles The Woodsmans Friend
- Tarp Setups the Foresters Tent and the 4 W's
- Making a Blade Bowl Adze
- The osage Bow Part 4
- Taking a Bearing from your Map made easy
- Journal of the Yurt 43 Stock and Trade Part 2
- Survival JMHO
- Simple Camping Improved Pot Crane System
- Batoning Wood with your Knife
- Improving the Wax Slug Load for 12 GA and Black Powder Equivelant
- Modern Trapping Part 7 Bedding Foot Hold Traps
- Wisdom of the Wall Tent Part 3 Camp Tool Box
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 5
- Pine Crate Tool Chest
- Pathfinder School Basic Class Equipment List Rundown
- Diary of the Tipi 11 Care for a Smoothbore Flintlock.wmv
- Baking with a Plank and a Bushpot
- Wood Craft on a Budget Part 3 Sheath Knives Continued
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 3 (Food)
- Triple Barrel Shotgun PF Edition Intro
- Maul a good Learning Project
- Meat Preservation Concerns and Setting Snares
- PFODJ Ep 11 Wet Weather Fire Segment
- The Small Common Man Trapping Kit
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 2
- Simple Camping Connection Knots 3
- Quick Review of the ILBE USMC Assault Pack and Sealine Insert Bag
- Simple Blade Grinding Jig
- Diary of the Tipi 12 Working with Natural Dyes Part 1.wmv
- PF SS Kettle
- Jeff White Bush Knife and a Wet wood Fire
- My Back Yard
- Knives JMHO
- Iris Intro Video Part 2.wmv
- Thanks for Play'en, Bobcat in an MB 450 Released
- Kit Mentality Updates
- Bullet Proof Bushcraft on a Budget PVC Pack Frame
- The Osage Bow Part 5
- The Mocotaugan
- Pathfinder Knife Shop Introduction
- Deadliest Small Game Primitive Trap
- Saami Repair Kit
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit
- Stone and Bone (Utilizing Resources) Part 1
- No Map No Problem Part 2
- Arrow Making for the Common Man
- The Wish Bone Trigger Snare New
- Making a quick Spring Lathe
- Using the Slingshot to Hunt Bigger Game
- Bark Basket Part 1
- Scout Camp Common Man Black Powder Setup
- Collecting Back Sinew and Some Meat from a Roadkilled Deer
- Dakota Fire Hole Proper Construction and Use
- Artifact Quality Leather Work
- Bucket Making White Coopering
- PFODJ Ep 5 Axe Tomahawk Segment
- Reverse Figure 4 Dead fall Trigger
- Fire and Bushpots
- Shooting Shot from a 50 Cal BP Rifle
- Tarp Setups Modifed Plow Point
- 50 Cal Blue Ridge Mountain Flint Lock
- Remington Shotgun Model 1889 Double Barrel
- Shrink Pot 1
- Reflector Oven Bread
- Preping the Sling Bow for a Big Game Hunt
- Modern Trapping Coon in Beaver set
- Brimstone Matches and Next Fire Mentality
- No Map No Problem Part 3 Height and Distance
- Saw Maintenance 2 Wood Craft on a Budget Part 14
- SS Canteen Available NOW!~
- Identifiying Flint Chert and other Sparking Rocks
- Trap Sets The Step Down Set Modern Trapping Series Part 48
- Axe Selection and Use
- The Osage Bow Part 2
- Tomahawk from a Rasp Blacksmithing Part 46
- Making Pemmican
- Moonshine Why Carry
- Trailblazer Deliverables Basic Compass Use
- Making the Flemish Bow String in the Bush Part 2
- Simple Camping Hammock use with Wool Blankets
- Forging a Hook Knife
- Finishing a New Old Stock Mora 311
- Survival Basic Series DVD Part 1
- Sharpening an Axe with a Hardware Store Grind
- Putting a Handle on a Mora Blade Blank
- Simple Machine DIY Spring Hammer
- Forging a Tomahawk from a Rasp
- Feathersticks or Shavings
- 21st Century Longhunter Series Combustion
- Fire School Part 15 Pump Drill Fire,Learning the process
- Seneca Pack Frame
- Ever thought about this? Fire Tricks
- Sustainability Long Term,Modern Trapping Series Part 42
- Blacksmithing Part 2 The Folding Small Game Gambrel
- Double Bit Axes Wood Craft on a Budget Part 17
- Sleeping Gear JMHO
- Knapping Arrowheads From Glass Part 1
- Mora Bushcraft Pathfinder
- Making a Cook Tripod with a Chain
- One Match Fire for BSA Bushcraft
- Rope Bed Construction
- The Spider Shelter Part 4, Simple Improvments
- Quick and Easy Tensioner Knot for your Tarp Lines.wmv
- 10 Simple Knife Projects Part 1
- Lighting a Candle with Flint and Steel
- Winter Pack Out
- Utilizing Resources (Making Venison Jerky) Part 2
- Natural Cordage Part 1 Harvesting and Processing Materials
- Asian Bird Trap Laos
- Vines and Withies
- Woodman's Pal
- Five Tool Rule
- Prefered Clothing and Layering for the Woods
- Simple Shadow Navigation Part 1
- Brain Tanning Hair On Part 2
- R&D of the Kephart Bedroll by Dave Canterbury and Duluth Pack
- Light Weight Scouting Pack Set up
- Trapline Diary Part 1 Coon Cuffs
- Survival Basic Series DVD Part 2
- Pathfinder Basics Estimating Distance and Pace Count Lecture
- Super Shelter Modified for the Eastern Woodlands Part 2
- FULL TANG MORA Bushcraft Knife
- Beginners Knife Safety Part 2
- Survival Bows (The Tillering Process)
- Blacksmithing Part 6 Common Man Tools and lighting the Forge
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 2
- Sloyd Project 1 Fid
- On the Waters Edge, Trekken and Fishen
- Traditional Cold weather Hammocking
- Knife Making, Material Reduction Knife Start to Finish Part 3
- Trapline Journal Coyote in MB450
- Winterizing the Hammock for the Common Man
- Samick Sage Recurve 8pt Buck Kill
- Large Bushpot Intro
- Bucksaw Modifications
- Fatwood Collecting Processing Igniting
- Aussie Wool Blanket
- Assembling a Custom Classic in the Mora Factory
- Traditional Camp Pack weight
- PFODJ Ep 2
- Hook Knife Part 1
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 4
- 1908 A&F Cook Grate
- Nordic Pocket Saw
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 1
- PFODJ Ep 5 Moved from the Pay Channel
- PFODJ Progression of Meat Source Gathering
- Experiments in Viking Navigation Viking Sun Stone
- Turkey Tail Materia Medica
- Hook Knife Part 2
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 3
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 2
- Double on Coons
- The Woodsmans Pantry Plus and the Woodland Chef Cook Kit
- Cooking Bannock in the Bush Pot with a Pack Grill Rack
- Fence Line Snares for Coyote
- Forged Scissors Part 2
- Forged Scissors Part 1
- Pathfinder Scout Hammock
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 5 Raccoon Meatloaf
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 2 Firearms
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 7 Fleshing Hides
- WInter Clothing Discussion
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 4 Tail Stripping
- Hammock Chair Hunting Seat
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 1
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 6 Single Shot Maintenance
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 8 Pocket Sets
- Making a Holiday Wreath
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 9 Making Kvass
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 3 Trash Panda
- 110 For Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 13 Wood Stoves
- Morakniv Carbon Steel Garberg
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 14 Releasing a Domestic Animal
- Z Drag with wooden Pulleys
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 12 Log Crossing Set
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 11 Chasing Mink
- Exotac Products and Titan Lighter tips
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 10 Mapping the Creek Bed
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 15
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 16 Last day for a few
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 18 Buck Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 17 Hidden Woodsman Pack
- Bushcrafting a Tarp Clip
- DD Tents
- Neck Knife to Carry or Not to Carry
- Blanket Pin Tripod
- Comprehensive Bow Drill
- Hibiscus Cordage
- The Versatile Marline Spike Hitch
- Hammock Chair Terrapin Outfitters
- Sticky Rice
- Udemy Intro Video
- Conserving the Bic in an emergency
- LL Bean Continental Ruck Sack
- Navigation The X Box Exercise
- Cave Man Conibear Updated
- Limb line Hook Set Device from natural materials
- Solar Embers without Char or Fungus
- Packing up the raised Bed Camp
- Raised Bed Emergency Shelter
- Basket Trap for Crayfish
- Making a Sun Compass
- Ottomani Sun Compass
- Dutchwaregear Chameleon Hammock and Xeon Tarp
- Tulip Poplar Knife Sheath
- Shadow Board Direction Finding
- Dirty by design
- Orienting a Map without a Compass
- Mushroom Foraging Part 2
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Crane
- Paracord Hammock
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Quickly Deployable Ridgeline
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Hanging Camp Gear
- Tighten a Shear Lash Easily
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Tripod
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 90 Degree Spine
- Mushroom Foraging
- Broiling Fish with Grill Racks and the SRO Monthly Special
- Exerpt on Basket Weaving at the Bushcraft 101 Class
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Double Prusik Tensioning System
- Week Long Training Loadout
- Lunch and the Base Camp Cookset
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 5 Navigational Aids
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The Angular Advantage
- Last Shadow First Shadow Method
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Improved Fire Starting
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Hanger
- Tulip Poplar The Best Eastern Woodland Bushcraft Resource
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Bark Candle Lantern
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 6
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The JB Figure 4 Variant
- Mushroom Foraging Part 3
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 3
- 5 Minutes to better Bushcraft other uses for Puffball Mushroom
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 7
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 5
- Fried Puff Ball Mushrooms
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 4
- Using a Strop to Clean, Sharpen, and Hone your Blades
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 1
- Best Survival Deadfall Trigger PDF4
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 2
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 9
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 8
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 10
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 11
- Blood Trailing a Deer
- M6 Takedown Rifle Comparison to the Springfield Scout
- Safe Release of Non Target Species
- French Press Testing and Protyping
- Simple Camp and a Test of the Wildward Lavu
- Pocket Stove Comparison