Brain Tanning Hair On Part 3
Description
http://www.thepathfinderstore.com
Dave Canterbury, David Canterbury, The Pathfinder School,Bush Craft ,Survival skills, Historical Lore, Primitive Skills, Archery, Hunting, Trapping, Fishing, Navigation, Knives, Axes, Fire, Water, Shelter, Search and Rescue
Tags: Bushcraft,Survival,David Canterbury,Dave Canterbury,Pathfinder,The Pathfinder School,Archery,Hunting,Fishing,Camping,Primitive Skills,Fire,Water,Shelter,Navigation,First Aid,Search and Rescue,Signaling,Prepper,Preparedness,Self Reliance,Survivability,The 10 C's,Knives,Axes,Saws,Bow Drill,Ferrocerium Rod,Ferro Rod,Tarp,Hammock,Canteen,Cooking,Longhunter,Trapping
Video Transcription
now as you're working this hard a face in the neck where the hottest thickest rear haunches in the backend those are going to give you the biggest fits they're going to take the most attention but one thing I wanted to tell you is don't ever be afraid to use a tree you know take out hide wrap it on that tree and they'll be afraid to use that tree to help break that hot it's not going to hurt anything you don't want to get the hair side on there and tyranny the hair up but definitely not going to hurt eight they use that tree that you'll be able to tell looking at the high you know you've got areas up here on the face that are going to be tougher then these areas are already getting soft like in here so as this thing starts to dry you'll be able to feel where it's getting stiff and those are the areas you really need to concentrate on working before they get dry the key now really is to get this thing dry break it get all the moisture out of it because if there's any moisture left in this hide at all or in the hair it's going to get stiff again so you've got to take care of that while it's still damp is when you want to break it you don't want to go through the process of getting a whole hide wet again if you don't absolutely happen
all right once we get this high down to where it is starting to get dry or it's fairly dry and this one's not quite as soft as I'd like to have it but part of that is because it's so cold outside too if you can do this indoors you're better off you can do it by fire that's even better
and I've been trying to do it by the fire as much as I can but my breaking stake is not by the fire either so I've got to do it a couple different places but once you get this high broken and you get that whitish color to it like that what you're wanting to do next is you want to take this hide and you want to smoke it and the reason you're going to smoke it is because that smoke will the smoke and the resins in the wood will adhere to the fibers in this brain tan and they will make it waterproof don't do that you don't smoke this high and it gets wet again you're going to be right back to square one with a piece of rawhide now to smoke this hide we want to get this thing on kind of a tripod configuration so I'm going to take the tripod that I already have here we're going to wrap the hide around this tripod and then we're going to kind of sew down one edge a little bit with the holes we've already got from the stretching circle to hold it together then we're going to put this over our fire but we don't want a raging fire we want is smoldering embers that we can throw wet punky woods on that will give lots and lots of smoke up into the hide so we'll try to close it off for the most part at the top and bail it down at the bottom and just sew it on there fucking fine holes it already exists in the hide those are the ones I'm going to use I can't find holes it already exists and I'll just stay on the outside edge as best I can we're not going to put a bunch of heat to this I am going to cut this excess off right here but we're not going to put much heat to this it's going to be smoke so I'm not really worried about melting the bank line per se because I shouldn't have that much heat up there if I do I've already done something else wrong and what I've done here is I've used a wool blanket shroud to close that and a little bit more at the bottom as a chimney to bring that smoke up into that hide because you got small hide there on your tripod and I could have built a different tripod configuration but being able to use the one I've already got is just taking advantage of that resource much easier just to throw that will blank it over there that have built another tripod the other reason that you're smoking this hide is because you want to deter any insects from eating your work and that smoking process will also deter the bugs I've got all my wood on the backside here that's wet punky you want what punk you would like that is what you want to use to burn you want to stay away from pines because you don't want that type of resin in your pie or ruin it you don't want flame you just want the smoke that we're getting right now as you're smoking this hide if you're doing a hide that's hair off the type of wood that you use will control the ending resulting color of that hide it will go from a whitish gray color to that buckskin color of like a brown or a golden brown or dark brown and that depends on the type of wood that you're using for this it really doesn't matter because all I'm trying to do is smoke the hide I've got the hair on the outside so I'm not going to really see the color of the high too much so I'm not worried about what color it is I'm just using whatever punky woods I can find and throwing them in this process takes a good you know couple hours for a hide this size to really get smoked and permeated into the high so you just got to be patient with it again it's a primitive skill patience is the key don't let the thing flame up that's the key to the whole thing is just make sure that it doesn't flame up on you and you're getting constant smoke right now I'm starting to get a little bit of flame so I'm going to put some work stuff on there to knock that flame down and get more smoke again okay so we've pulled our hide off the smoking rack now and it's definitely smells like a campfire which is what it should smell like and it's a little bit stiff in a couple spots but it's still very malleable and that's exactly what you want with a piece of brain tan I may break you just a little bit more before it's over with over here on a stick just to soften it up just a little bit more but it's in pretty good shape so that's just a basic understanding of how you make a brain tanned hide with the hair on process is pretty simple you can actually bring the hide right off the carcass if you want to the only risk you have involved in something like that without drying it first is if you don't get all of the oils and things out of the skin you take a chance on the brain solution not soaking into the hide properly that's why I like to come leads right out and make sure that all of the oils and stuff are gone from it and then rehydrated and start the process but you can do it straight off the carcass if you choose to do it that way I'm Dave Canterbury with the Pathfinder school I appreciate join me for this video today I appreciate you joining for this series on simple brain tanning with the hair on I appreciate your views and your support I thank you very thing to do for our school for our business for our family for all of our sponsors instructors affiliates and Friends and me and Rufus Lee back to the video as soon as we can thanks guys
About the Author
wildernessoutfitters
From the lore of bushcraft to all things related to self-sustainability, the Pathfinder vision is to pass on the knowledge of outdoor self-reliance. Providing basic to advanced self-reliance training and survival gear, our goal is to offer both practical knowledge and survival gear that will stand the test of time. From emergency preparedness to sustainability, the Pathfinder way is to share and educate.
Here you can explore the world of survival knives, survival kits and simple tips on outdoor self-reliance. We are always learning and enjoy passing on the knowledge we acquire.
There is no substitute for having a plan in the event of the unexpected.
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- Cooking Bannock in the Bush Pot with a Pack Grill Rack
- Fence Line Snares for Coyote
- Forged Scissors Part 2
- Forged Scissors Part 1
- Pathfinder Scout Hammock
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 5 Raccoon Meatloaf
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 2 Firearms
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 7 Fleshing Hides
- WInter Clothing Discussion
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 4 Tail Stripping
- Hammock Chair Hunting Seat
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 1
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 6 Single Shot Maintenance
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 8 Pocket Sets
- Making a Holiday Wreath
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 9 Making Kvass
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 3 Trash Panda
- 110 For Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 13 Wood Stoves
- Morakniv Carbon Steel Garberg
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 14 Releasing a Domestic Animal
- Z Drag with wooden Pulleys
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 12 Log Crossing Set
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 11 Chasing Mink
- Exotac Products and Titan Lighter tips
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 10 Mapping the Creek Bed
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 15
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 16 Last day for a few
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 18 Buck Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 17 Hidden Woodsman Pack
- Bushcrafting a Tarp Clip
- DD Tents
- Neck Knife to Carry or Not to Carry
- Blanket Pin Tripod
- Comprehensive Bow Drill
- Hibiscus Cordage
- The Versatile Marline Spike Hitch
- Hammock Chair Terrapin Outfitters
- Sticky Rice
- Udemy Intro Video
- Conserving the Bic in an emergency
- LL Bean Continental Ruck Sack
- Navigation The X Box Exercise
- Cave Man Conibear Updated
- Limb line Hook Set Device from natural materials
- Solar Embers without Char or Fungus
- Packing up the raised Bed Camp
- Raised Bed Emergency Shelter
- Basket Trap for Crayfish
- Making a Sun Compass
- Ottomani Sun Compass
- Dutchwaregear Chameleon Hammock and Xeon Tarp
- Tulip Poplar Knife Sheath
- Shadow Board Direction Finding
- Dirty by design
- Orienting a Map without a Compass
- Mushroom Foraging Part 2
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Crane
- Paracord Hammock
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Quickly Deployable Ridgeline
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Hanging Camp Gear
- Tighten a Shear Lash Easily
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Tripod
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 90 Degree Spine
- Mushroom Foraging
- Broiling Fish with Grill Racks and the SRO Monthly Special
- Exerpt on Basket Weaving at the Bushcraft 101 Class
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Double Prusik Tensioning System
- Week Long Training Loadout
- Lunch and the Base Camp Cookset
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 5 Navigational Aids
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The Angular Advantage
- Last Shadow First Shadow Method
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Improved Fire Starting
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Hanger
- Tulip Poplar The Best Eastern Woodland Bushcraft Resource
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Bark Candle Lantern
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 6
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The JB Figure 4 Variant
- Mushroom Foraging Part 3
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 3
- 5 Minutes to better Bushcraft other uses for Puffball Mushroom
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 7
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 5
- Fried Puff Ball Mushrooms
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 4
- Using a Strop to Clean, Sharpen, and Hone your Blades
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 1
- Best Survival Deadfall Trigger PDF4
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 2
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 9
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 8
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 10
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 11
- Blood Trailing a Deer
- M6 Takedown Rifle Comparison to the Springfield Scout
- Safe Release of Non Target Species
- French Press Testing and Protyping
- Simple Camp and a Test of the Wildward Lavu
- Pocket Stove Comparison