Take Down Bucksaw Project Wood Craft on a Budget Part 19
Description
http://www.thepathfinderstore.com
Dave Canterbury, David Canterbury, The Pathfinder School,Bush Craft ,Survival skills, Historical Lore, Primitive Skills, Archery, Hunting, Trapping, Fishing, Navigation, Knives, Axes, Fire, Water, Shelter, Search and Rescue
Tags: Bushcraft,Survival,David Canterbury,Dave Canterbury,Pathfinder,The Pathfinder School,Archery,Hunting,Fishing,Camping,Primitive Skills,Fire,Water,Shelter,Navigation,First Aid,Search and Rescue,Signaling,Prepper,Preparedness,Self Reliance,Survivability,The 10 C's,Knives,Axes,Saws,Bow Drill,Ferrocerium Rod,Ferro Rod,Tarp,Hammock,Canteen,Cooking,Longhunter,Trapping
Video Transcription
morning guys I'm Dave Canterbury with the Pathfinder school what I want to do today is I want to show you how to do a simple at home project you can do in your garage on your back porch whatever the case may be to make a very simple take down bucks on this is probably the most stable design for take down buck saw that I've ever seen use a little bit heavier material as far as the size and diameter than what I've seen in the past but it doesn't take a whole lot of carving to get this done and it's probably the most stable design that I've ever seen for a buck saw it holds together really really well it'll cut wood for your really good and last you for years as long as you aisle it and take care of it and it's very very cost effective so we're going to talk about making this today we can do this in about 20-25 minutes very easily and it's very very cost effective the most expensive part of this whole thing are the blades these Baco blades are fairly expensive but they're expensive for a reason there's good blades you're going to have about 10 bucks in a blade so if you get both of these blades you're gonna have about 20 bucks just in the blades but the material to make the saw is going to cost you way less than five dollars so real quick let's discuss materials you're going to need a two by two and this is about four feet long you're not going to need this much this is a piece of one by two furring strip this is probably 2 foot long you're not going to need this much your longest expanse is going to be as long as your blade is are a little bit shorter than your blade which in this case reason 21 inch blades you can find this material in scrap at any construction site that's building a house and pick it up for free we're going to need some paracord and we're going to need some simple tool all right if you don't have a saw to go by to make a pattern off of then you just need to kind of guesstimate how long you want these uprights to be these particular uprights on this saw and it works very very well are about 15 inches good standard easy measurement so we're going to need two of those two by twos that are 15 inches long so we'll just take our 2 by 2 we'll cut to 15 inch pieces off of it with our dovetail saw or a crosscut saw we could use either one
we'll get those cut first and then we'll move on okay once we have those two pieces cut we need our centerpiece cut our centerpiece is going to be about an inch shorter than our blade because we want this thing to pull in a little bit this direction so we're going to make an ensure that our blade our blades are about 21 inches so what we're going to do is we're going to take this and make this 20 inches so we'll cut that 20 inch piece now we want this cross piece to be about halfway up our uprights so what we're going to do is we're going to measure that off with the other 15 inches so seven and a half is going to be our centerline we want to decide which is going to be top and which is going to be the bottom this has got knots in it but I have to do is make a slit here for the blade in a hole this is going to not ride the top so that's going to affect my slit but it won't affect anything at the top so I'm going to put this as my bottom and I'm going to mark this at seven and a half and just so that I remember where things are at I'm going to write on this bottom on this end that's just going to help me later maybe remember sometimes I forget things so it's easier to write it down this one's a clear piece of lumber all the way around doesn't really matter on this one which is a top and which the bottom mark it is seven and a half okay now we get into the only tricky part of this if we're using hand tools to do this stuff with and that is a mortise and tenon joint what that means is we're going to have a male on this end and a female on this end and plug one into the other very simple terms so what we need to do is we need to decide how big we want the male end and working up at the male ends on this cross piece so if we look at how wide this piece is it's an inch and a half so 3/4 is a centerline of that so we make a mark at 3/4 we know our centerline is then if we go about a quarter of an inch in on this side and a quarter of an inch on this side that's going to be how wide our mailing is going to be right across here then when you decide how deep we want it to go inside here and we could use hand sizzles and hand drills to do everything or we could use electric it depends on what we want to do but I don't want to make this real deep I'm going to make it about the thickness of this tape measure so what I'm going to do is I'm just going to take my tape measure and line it up across here like this so this folding ruler and put it down to there and then I'm just going to hand mark that down like this just like this and I'm going to cut off this and this with my dovetail saw and I'm going to do the same thing on the other side now what I'm going to do is I'm going to trace this line around on the sides of this because I'm going to have to make soft cuts there as well and I want to know where those cuts are supposed to be then I'm going to take this piece of wood and I'm going to clamp it into a vise down close to where those cuts are going to be just like this get that thing as straight up and down as I can get it plumb as I can get it in there tight and that's where I'm going to take my dovetail saw and make my cuts here and here then we'll turn the piece and cut the sides we want to cut right down to that line just like that and then we'll do the same thing on this other side again we want to get that thing in there pretty straight so we know we're making a nice straight cut and follow our line that we made here which should be about even just like that then we'll cut the other side off and we can do this with a multi-tool saw if we had to do it that way all right so now we need to reduce the width or the thickness of this just a little bit and to do that we're just going to come here with our dovetail saw again cut down in here is just a little weight
and I'm a balling this portion of it but I just want to remove a little bit of material to make this a little bit thinner so they don't have to take as much material off the leg to put a hole in here so I don't I can avoid side your side stress that might split this thing out
take a wood chisel and just pop that off there like I was batani with a knife so I'm just going to put this on here straight above that cut hammer down and split that right off like that and I'm going to do the same thing on this other side just like that and that's going to give me that joint right there it's going to fit inside of here now I'll do the same thing on the other side and once you have cut that in there you can do one of two things you can measure it and square that up or you can just put it over the top of it like this and eyeball it to the center and basically just draw it on there just like this and they just fill it in freehand so we're going to cut a square hole in here her rectangle hole in here just like this
this deep for this to fit inside up all right once we've got our square drawing on there we need to figure out how we're going to cut that hole we're using a couple different tools to do that first of all we're going to use a bit embrace and this bit that I've chosen is about the same width as this and about half of though I'm sorry it's about the same height and about half the width I think I said that right so we're going to go on each side of this center line and we're going to drill down in here that we get about the depth we want what we could do is we could put a piece of tape on this bit so we know exactly where we need to go with it all right so once we've got that initial hole cut in there I'm going to do a lot of work with the chisel now so we're going to take a chisel here we're going to come in here right beside that cut that in try straighten those sides out a little bit just like that and I'm just taking it in little pieces and pry them out not going any deeper than I already was just like that okay so that gives us a nice tight fit right there and it fits the same way on the other side so now we just need to repeat this hole on our other piece okay so that's the most difficult part of the puzzle is those two joints the rest of it's pretty simple now what we're going to do is we're going to we know this is our bottom and we know that the blade is going to sit across this way so we're going to take these two pieces and we're going to Center cut them on the bottom here deep enough that we can get our blade in and a nail on the side so we'll get that lined up in the center we'll get a centerline a cut line here like that
we want to make sure that that line is pretty straight we'll take our dovetail saw we're going to cut right on one side that line it's like this for the center we're going to come down again we can use our device for measuring here and we're just going to go down a little bit deeper I think this time then the width of this because our blade is a little bit wider than that you want to keep this cut nice and straight we can pretty much lay our blade in there and see how deep we need to go because we got to remember we have to have a nail in here to hold this blade in place so if we slide this blade in at that depth do we have room for a nail hole absolutely so we only need to go as deep as that tape measure is wide in here and we'll be fine and that's just about right in the middle so we can lay this blade on the side here like this to judge where we need our hole at I'm going to drop down just a little bit and I'm going to use the first hole on this I'm going to scoot over here this way and put my mark right here for my nail hole that's where my nail is going to go through now we have to do the same thing on the other piece okay so now all we need to do is we need to drill a hole through here a hole through here and then we need to take this piece here it's just rough right now we can shape it later we need to drill two holes here just a little ways down in the center we can eyeball that just fine what we're going to do with that is we're going to use a bit and brace again with a different size bit to drill these holes and these holes here all four these will be the same size they just need to big enough for the nails to go through and for a piece of paracord to go through okay we now have a functional bow saw we just need to cut our paracord to link and put it together I've got the nails in my pocket here and now it's just a matter of fancying it up the way you want to so I'm going to show you real quick how this goes together it's a very simple process
first of all let's melt thee into this paracord
okay so what we're going to do is we're going to take our nail we're going to set our pieces here just like this now it becomes about like a Lincoln Log set just like this and we take our blade and slide it in you're going to have a little bit of saw kerf in there probably to deal with it you'll have to get out of your way or drill material that you'll have to get out of your way just push the blade in there now get it out of your way just like that now if you put that blade in there a few times that'll all be going push that through until you find the hole and push that nail into the hole just like that then the same thing on this other side drop that through just like that now at that point you put this in the middle just like this now the whole process of this thing is is that you're going to put tension up here to push against this mortise and tenon joint you have here which is going to spread the thing out this is where this paddle comes in with the two holes in the paracord so you'll just take your paracord you'll run it through here just like this is the easiest way to do it give yourself enough paracord then you can wrap around both sides of this here and here let's just lay this on the top for a minute and give yourself just a little bit of overlap there to tie your knot in it doesn't have to be any longer than that because tension is the key here well shorten that up a little bit just like this that's going to be more than enough right there so we'll take our knife we'll cut that off just like that we'll burn that end real quick and then we can tie any knot that we choose in the end of that paracord that's not going to come undone I prefer a fisherman style type knot so I'm just going to take this piece off just like this I'm going to come over here and tie a knot in this side over the line like this with a little bit of a tag do the same thing over here tie this line to this line with a little bit of a tag and that is a fisherman's type knot or a necklace knot so when you pull the nuts together they bind against each other put that over the top just like this and then all you need to do is twist this like this and that will create the tension that you need to tighten the saw so we'll just turn that over until it tightens up and it may stretch out on you the first time make sure that you get these fairly even about an inch down from the top on both sides as pointy keep twisting that until it's nice and tight or as tight as you feel it needs to be it's like this and then it toggles against this side to hold tension so now you have a very robust type bucks off it's not going to flop around on you it's not going to move side-to-side and it's going to be good solid tighten that thing up don't be afraid of it pair of cords got a lot of stretch value to it now there's a lot of things that you can do from here to fancy this thing up you can carve that toggle down a little bit like I did this one to make it look a little bit more eye pleasing you can take a little bit off the sides of these uprights on the corners and smooth them out a little bit for better hand grip you can do the same thing at the top to make it match you can take a notch out of these two corners like I did here to hold that paracord in place better and make it look like this and at this point you've got a saw that is multifunctional in the fact you can use multiple blades on it or different types of blades depending on the wood that you're cutting okay so here's a piece of dry oak got three inches in diameter get off to the side on here a little bit and remember this is the dry saw blade or the dry wood blade correct guys one Dave Canada with Pathfinder school and I appreciate you joining me here today for the short video on how to make a collapsible bucks off at home on the cheap the very easy project it's a fun project to teach you a little bit about when working making mortise and tenon joints things like that I would encourage you to try a project like this with your young I thank you for your support and your views I thank you for anything you do for our school for our family for our instructors sponsors affiliates and Friends I'll be doctor another video so they can thanks guys
About the Author
wildernessoutfitters
From the lore of bushcraft to all things related to self-sustainability, the Pathfinder vision is to pass on the knowledge of outdoor self-reliance. Providing basic to advanced self-reliance training and survival gear, our goal is to offer both practical knowledge and survival gear that will stand the test of time. From emergency preparedness to sustainability, the Pathfinder way is to share and educate.
Here you can explore the world of survival knives, survival kits and simple tips on outdoor self-reliance. We are always learning and enjoy passing on the knowledge we acquire.
There is no substitute for having a plan in the event of the unexpected.
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- Rokon Winter Packout
- Blacksmith a Squirrel Cooker explained Part 47
- Leather Knife Scales
- M6 Scout Update Review
- The Osage Bow Part 1
- Basic Carving Kit
- Snow Shoes JMHO
- Simplicity
- Final Product Modified Kephart Bedroll by Duluth Pack
- Swedish Lap Vise
- Forging a Custom Carving Axe with Liam Hoffman Part 1
- Toggles The Woodsmans Friend
- Tarp Setups the Foresters Tent and the 4 W's
- Making a Blade Bowl Adze
- The osage Bow Part 4
- Taking a Bearing from your Map made easy
- Journal of the Yurt 43 Stock and Trade Part 2
- Survival JMHO
- Simple Camping Improved Pot Crane System
- Batoning Wood with your Knife
- Improving the Wax Slug Load for 12 GA and Black Powder Equivelant
- Modern Trapping Part 7 Bedding Foot Hold Traps
- Wisdom of the Wall Tent Part 3 Camp Tool Box
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 5
- Pine Crate Tool Chest
- Pathfinder School Basic Class Equipment List Rundown
- Diary of the Tipi 11 Care for a Smoothbore Flintlock.wmv
- Baking with a Plank and a Bushpot
- Wood Craft on a Budget Part 3 Sheath Knives Continued
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 3 (Food)
- Triple Barrel Shotgun PF Edition Intro
- Maul a good Learning Project
- Meat Preservation Concerns and Setting Snares
- PFODJ Ep 11 Wet Weather Fire Segment
- The Small Common Man Trapping Kit
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 2
- Simple Camping Connection Knots 3
- Pathfinder Outdoor Journal Ep1 FULL HD Episode
- Quick Review of the ILBE USMC Assault Pack and Sealine Insert Bag
- Simple Blade Grinding Jig
- Diary of the Tipi 12 Working with Natural Dyes Part 1.wmv
- PF SS Kettle
- Jeff White Bush Knife and a Wet wood Fire
- My Back Yard
- Knives JMHO
- Iris Intro Video Part 2.wmv
- Thanks for Play'en, Bobcat in an MB 450 Released
- Kit Mentality Updates
- Bullet Proof Bushcraft on a Budget PVC Pack Frame
- The Osage Bow Part 5
- The Mocotaugan
- Pathfinder Knife Shop Introduction
- Deadliest Small Game Primitive Trap
- Saami Repair Kit
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit
- Stone and Bone (Utilizing Resources) Part 1
- No Map No Problem Part 2
- Arrow Making for the Common Man
- The Wish Bone Trigger Snare New
- Making a quick Spring Lathe
- Using the Slingshot to Hunt Bigger Game
- Bark Basket Part 1
- Scout Camp Common Man Black Powder Setup
- Collecting Back Sinew and Some Meat from a Roadkilled Deer
- Dakota Fire Hole Proper Construction and Use
- Artifact Quality Leather Work
- Bucket Making White Coopering
- PFODJ Ep 5 Axe Tomahawk Segment
- Reverse Figure 4 Dead fall Trigger
- Fire and Bushpots
- Shooting Shot from a 50 Cal BP Rifle
- Tarp Setups Modifed Plow Point
- 50 Cal Blue Ridge Mountain Flint Lock
- Remington Shotgun Model 1889 Double Barrel
- Shrink Pot 1
- Reflector Oven Bread
- Preping the Sling Bow for a Big Game Hunt
- Modern Trapping Coon in Beaver set
- Brimstone Matches and Next Fire Mentality
- No Map No Problem Part 3 Height and Distance
- Saw Maintenance 2 Wood Craft on a Budget Part 14
- SS Canteen Available NOW!~
- Identifiying Flint Chert and other Sparking Rocks
- Trap Sets The Step Down Set Modern Trapping Series Part 48
- Axe Selection and Use
- The Osage Bow Part 2
- Tomahawk from a Rasp Blacksmithing Part 46
- Making Pemmican
- Moonshine Why Carry
- Trailblazer Deliverables Basic Compass Use
- Making the Flemish Bow String in the Bush Part 2
- Simple Camping Hammock use with Wool Blankets
- Forging a Hook Knife
- Finishing a New Old Stock Mora 311
- Survival Basic Series DVD Part 1
- Sharpening an Axe with a Hardware Store Grind
- Putting a Handle on a Mora Blade Blank
- Simple Machine DIY Spring Hammer
- Forging a Tomahawk from a Rasp
- Feathersticks or Shavings
- 21st Century Longhunter Series Combustion
- Fire School Part 15 Pump Drill Fire,Learning the process
- Seneca Pack Frame
- Ever thought about this? Fire Tricks
- Sustainability Long Term,Modern Trapping Series Part 42
- Blacksmithing Part 2 The Folding Small Game Gambrel
- Double Bit Axes Wood Craft on a Budget Part 17
- Sleeping Gear JMHO
- Knapping Arrowheads From Glass Part 1
- Mora Bushcraft Pathfinder
- Making a Cook Tripod with a Chain
- One Match Fire for BSA Bushcraft
- Rope Bed Construction
- The Spider Shelter Part 4, Simple Improvments
- Quick and Easy Tensioner Knot for your Tarp Lines.wmv
- 10 Simple Knife Projects Part 1
- Lighting a Candle with Flint and Steel
- Winter Pack Out
- Utilizing Resources (Making Venison Jerky) Part 2
- Natural Cordage Part 1 Harvesting and Processing Materials
- Asian Bird Trap Laos
- Vines and Withies
- Woodman's Pal
- Five Tool Rule
- Prefered Clothing and Layering for the Woods
- Simple Shadow Navigation Part 1
- Brain Tanning Hair On Part 2
- R&D of the Kephart Bedroll by Dave Canterbury and Duluth Pack
- Light Weight Scouting Pack Set up
- Trapline Diary Part 1 Coon Cuffs
- Survival Basic Series DVD Part 2
- Pathfinder Basics Estimating Distance and Pace Count Lecture
- Super Shelter Modified for the Eastern Woodlands Part 2
- FULL TANG MORA Bushcraft Knife
- Beginners Knife Safety Part 2
- Survival Bows (The Tillering Process)
- Blacksmithing Part 6 Common Man Tools and lighting the Forge
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 2
- Sloyd Project 1 Fid
- On the Waters Edge, Trekken and Fishen
- Traditional Cold weather Hammocking
- Knife Making, Material Reduction Knife Start to Finish Part 3
- Trapline Journal Coyote in MB450
- Winterizing the Hammock for the Common Man
- Samick Sage Recurve 8pt Buck Kill
- Large Bushpot Intro
- Bucksaw Modifications
- Fatwood Collecting Processing Igniting
- Aussie Wool Blanket
- Assembling a Custom Classic in the Mora Factory
- Traditional Camp Pack weight
- PFODJ Ep 2
- Hook Knife Part 1
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 4
- 1908 A&F Cook Grate
- Nordic Pocket Saw
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 1
- PFODJ Ep 5 Moved from the Pay Channel
- PFODJ Progression of Meat Source Gathering
- Experiments in Viking Navigation Viking Sun Stone
- Turkey Tail Materia Medica
- Hook Knife Part 2
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 3
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 2
- Double on Coons
- The Woodsmans Pantry Plus and the Woodland Chef Cook Kit
- Cooking Bannock in the Bush Pot with a Pack Grill Rack
- Fence Line Snares for Coyote
- Forged Scissors Part 2
- Forged Scissors Part 1
- Pathfinder Scout Hammock
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 5 Raccoon Meatloaf
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 2 Firearms
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 7 Fleshing Hides
- WInter Clothing Discussion
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 4 Tail Stripping
- Hammock Chair Hunting Seat
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 1
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 6 Single Shot Maintenance
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 8 Pocket Sets
- Making a Holiday Wreath
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 9 Making Kvass
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 3 Trash Panda
- 110 For Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 13 Wood Stoves
- Morakniv Carbon Steel Garberg
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 14 Releasing a Domestic Animal
- Z Drag with wooden Pulleys
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 12 Log Crossing Set
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 11 Chasing Mink
- Exotac Products and Titan Lighter tips
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 10 Mapping the Creek Bed
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 15
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 16 Last day for a few
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 18 Buck Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 17 Hidden Woodsman Pack
- Bushcrafting a Tarp Clip
- DD Tents
- Neck Knife to Carry or Not to Carry
- Blanket Pin Tripod
- Comprehensive Bow Drill
- Hibiscus Cordage
- The Versatile Marline Spike Hitch
- Hammock Chair Terrapin Outfitters
- Sticky Rice
- Udemy Intro Video
- Conserving the Bic in an emergency
- LL Bean Continental Ruck Sack
- Navigation The X Box Exercise
- Cave Man Conibear Updated
- Limb line Hook Set Device from natural materials
- Solar Embers without Char or Fungus
- Packing up the raised Bed Camp
- Raised Bed Emergency Shelter
- Basket Trap for Crayfish
- Making a Sun Compass
- Ottomani Sun Compass
- Dutchwaregear Chameleon Hammock and Xeon Tarp
- Tulip Poplar Knife Sheath
- Shadow Board Direction Finding
- Dirty by design
- Orienting a Map without a Compass
- Mushroom Foraging Part 2
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Crane
- Paracord Hammock
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Quickly Deployable Ridgeline
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Hanging Camp Gear
- Tighten a Shear Lash Easily
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Tripod
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 90 Degree Spine
- Mushroom Foraging
- Broiling Fish with Grill Racks and the SRO Monthly Special
- Exerpt on Basket Weaving at the Bushcraft 101 Class
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Double Prusik Tensioning System
- Week Long Training Loadout
- Lunch and the Base Camp Cookset
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 5 Navigational Aids
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The Angular Advantage
- Last Shadow First Shadow Method
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Improved Fire Starting
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Hanger
- Tulip Poplar The Best Eastern Woodland Bushcraft Resource
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Bark Candle Lantern
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 6
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The JB Figure 4 Variant
- Mushroom Foraging Part 3
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 3
- 5 Minutes to better Bushcraft other uses for Puffball Mushroom
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 7
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 5
- Fried Puff Ball Mushrooms
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 4
- Using a Strop to Clean, Sharpen, and Hone your Blades
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 1
- Best Survival Deadfall Trigger PDF4
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 2
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 9
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 8
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 10
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 11
- Blood Trailing a Deer
- M6 Takedown Rifle Comparison to the Springfield Scout
- Safe Release of Non Target Species
- French Press Testing and Protyping
- Simple Camp and a Test of the Wildward Lavu
- Pocket Stove Comparison