The Osage Bow Part 1
Description
http://www.thepathfinderschoolllc.com
Tags: Pathfinder,Survival,Bug Out,Bushcraft,Scouts,Scouting,Primitive,Primitive Skills.Traditional,Archery,Bone,Stone,Tools,Self Reliance,Navigation,Orienteering,Tracking,Trekking,Camping,Backpacking,Hiking,Tents,Campfire,Fire,Wool Blanket,Kit,Emergency Preparedness,Spear,Hunting,Cooking,Fishing,Game Cleaning,Meat preservation,Nature,Naturalist,Trapping,Traps,Primitive Traps,Handdrill,Bowdrill
Video Transcription
morning guys well afternoon guys Dave Canterbury with Pathfinder school brought you guys back out here today uh-huh
I thought I was going to pull a sneaky one in duct tape it's live and you can see how that turned out since I've put on the tillering tree it snapped off again so that didn't happen now sometimes you can get away with like this limb that we had the hinge in I put some duct tape on that hinge and I probably could have got away with that because I've bent this thing pretty good on the ground in front of me and it's not going to break but this one here was just too close to the tip where it broke just no way to repair that so we're going to go ahead and it just kills me to ditch something like this and I told you I was gonna throw the way anyway and I hadn't done it yet so now I'm going to actually burn it and trash it but because I want to make a bow with you guys on video I've got another stave right here that I've had actually in a corner of my office for I'm guessing two years okay and this is Osage orange there's no doubt that this thing is going to work out okay for a bow now this is going to be a very fun bow to work with because you can see if you look at it the limbs are actually offset on this thing it's got a lot of character and it's got some reflux already in it right here and it's got some reflux in it right here but these limbs are no way shape or form the same and they're actually curved ones curved this way and ones curved the other way so it's going to have a lot of character when we're done with it but it's a nice piece of Osage orange a lot of guys have asked me now what's the best Woods to make a bow out of in the Eastern woodlands this is it Osage orange is the number one best wood I would not take anything over Osage if I could get a piece of it like I said this piece has been curing in the corner in my office for about two years it was just hacked out with a saw to a basic shape and left there and now I'm going to start working on this boat with you guys I won't see if we can't get this one finished up for this series coming to spare you guys a lot of this because we've already been through all this with the other boo but first thing I want to do is I've got this thing squared off so the first thing I'm going to do is take my axe and basically get these limbs rounded off a little bit so I don't have square corners on these limbs and when I get that done I'll work on looking at getting it to where it needs to be the floor tiller so we'll get that done we'll get one limb subfloor tillers and we'll show you that as we go you can look at this and see where it's thin and words thick it's got some areas on it here that are going to have to be thinned out a little bit especially down here this lower limb down on the bottom here it's thicker than it is up here in the fade so we're going to take meat off of that immediately and once I get this thing rounded down a little bit that's what we're going to do then we'll concentrate on taking that meat off first and then we'll see if we can get the floor tiller and we'll go from there guys I want to show you one of the really good things about these dry staves as you can absolutely tell where you've taken wood off compared to where you have it in the beginning stages of this and it makes it real easy to tell what you've done with your work now this Osage is really bright yellow when you first cut into it but as it ages and since it turns this dark brown orange color that's why it's called Osage orange it's also called bow dark as what the Indians called it in Eastern woodlands this was the preferred bow material of the woodland Indians one thing that you need to realize when you're working dry wood like this takes a lot longer to work a piece of wood down even with a good sharp axe then it does when you're working wet wood the dry wood doesn't give it up near as easy as wet wood does so you just got to take your time with it be careful you still don't want to get any real deep gouges in it that you can't take care of later with a rasp or what not and just trying to keep these limbs fairly round on the backside on the belly the bow trying to keep it fairly round and as I go I'm looking at the floor tiller and see how it's bending right now it's hardly bending at all but that's very typical of osage anyway Osage is a very hard strong wood and these limbs will have to be pretty thin before this thing is going to fill at all you can get away with you know pretty thin bow when you're talking about Osage your limbs are going to be very wide you can still have a 60 70 pound bow very very easy out of sight so it's going to take quite a while to work this state down to get the same type of tiller on it we had on that other bow or obviously we don't want quite that much tiller because we want to be a stronger bow but what I'm saying it when I'm getting out I guess is that you're going to take a lot more meat off of this bow number one because it's dried never came because it's a lot harder piece of wood and you have taking a lot more meat off of it to get tiller out but it will end up with a smaller lighter bow because of that that will have the same amount of poundage and because it's such a dense fibrous hard wood you get a lot of good good reflux out of this bow when you let when you let go the string from draw and you can make some really really powerful fast both kind of Osage orange that's why it was the preferred bow wood of the Indians because it was so good for that I mean it's just a great wood for making bows out of so I'm just trying to take a short strokes and keeping everything as even as I can as I go clean with the tiller a little bit as I go to see where I need to take more meat off of just like we talked about the last video that you can see I'm taking a lot off of that and it's hardly flexing at all that's good what I want is before I put this on a tillering treat I only want two to three inches of flex so when I'm holding the middle of this boat flexing that limb I only went flex two or three inches now this has got some good reflex in the limb already the other got reflux in it as well so that's going to give me a lot more power in this Bowie anyway when I'm done but this process is going to be a long process I'm not going to sit and film it all for you but I wanted you guys to see a good finished bow made out of natural materials made with very few tools to show you that can be done and you can make a nice good service will bow without the aid of shop tools and things like that
in the woods so we're going to continue to work with this and I'll get back with it
okay I do when I explain to you guys this point I want to talk about this it's a good little lesson while we're on this bow there's a couple different ways that you can make this bow or this limb flex more you can make it thinner you can make it narrower or you can taper on the sides now what I'm saying by that is you're going to be taking meat off of this limb but there's a lot of different ways you can take meat off this limb to get the same effect and at this point I really don't want this bow much thinner up in here than it already is it's already I don't know I'm going to say 5/8 of an inch thick maybe up here at the fade I don't want a much thinner than that a little bit maybe right here but so right now what I'm working on is beveling this over at a 45 degree angle pretty much all the way up the limb to the fade and then I want to see what the floor tillers like so understanding what things you can do to make your limbs flex more is very important when you're in the initial process of making your bow because it's going to dictate the shape of your bow in the shape of your limb and how it flexes and the D style bow or a curved bow and the belly side is generally considered to be the most powerful type of bow that you can make for a regular static long bow not a compound bow not a reflex D flex but just a static long bow you know a curved D style design is generally considered to be the best so that's kind of what we're working on here a little at a time now the other thing I want to show you real quick is I when I cut this bow out originally and put this thing out to dry I drew a center line up this both in the center point of the bottom limb up to the center point of the top limb and I'm kind of paying attention to that center line on my limb as I go as I'm taking meat or thickness off of the limb I'm paying attention to where that center lines at because that's going to be the center line of my string because both of these limbs are offset from each other remember that so I want to keep them in a straight line when the bow actually bends to each other I don't want an angle there so this is center line all the way up this bow and I want to pay attention to that while I'm making this limb and keep it centered on that center line okay now you can start to see that we're getting some flex in this limb now see how the limbs starting to flex the other side won't flex at all okay that's good that means we're getting where we need to be and you can see that limb is getting pretty thin and still stiff as a board
I mean that's just if that's what osage will do for you osage gives you a real heavy-duty bow that doesn't have to weigh a whole lot so now the trick is with a bow like this it's all curvy and reflexed already is you've really got to pay attention to your tiller now to get meat off the right places so you don't screw that up because you got off this thing shooting off this way to begin with plus its reflex this way so we really got to watch what we're doing now but we're getting a slimmed-down to where we get some flex in it now and now get to the point we ought to be looking at our other limb okay guys well hope you've enjoyed this first segment on the Osage boat we're going to continue working on this with you guys over the next few days and hopefully we'll come out with a nice shootable hunting bow like I said this one did season for quite a long time couple years not necessarily to have a season that long the season is probably good enough but this was just sat until I decided I was going to work on it and I thought since I broke that last bow and times getting really short now I'm not going to shoot very many more videos to be honest with you I wanted to try to finish this segment up I also wanted to thank all the guys that are posting videos on my channel now I've got Chris Cooper I've got Matt Cooper outdoors
I've got Pat who's new posting videos on my channel he's doing a good job I've got Malkin out Johnny Rambo one one one one one from UK he's gonna be posting videos there's going to be some videos posted in the next few days by paleo man gym down down south down there he's a very very good flint knapper he's putting together a series right now flint knapping basics that he's going to post on my channel and i welcome all the people I've still got bushcraft on fire I've still got Rob Fraser for canteen shop comm course I got critter my lead instructor at the Pathfinder school he'll be posting videos hopefully on Monday he's on a three-day winter camp right now hopefully he'll be posting videos on Monday we'll get some more videos posted on there so sage Bo as we go and like I said I really appreciate your views I appreciate your support and thank you for supporting me and my channel we'll see on the next video
About the Author
wildernessoutfitters
From the lore of bushcraft to all things related to self-sustainability, the Pathfinder vision is to pass on the knowledge of outdoor self-reliance. Providing basic to advanced self-reliance training and survival gear, our goal is to offer both practical knowledge and survival gear that will stand the test of time. From emergency preparedness to sustainability, the Pathfinder way is to share and educate.
Here you can explore the world of survival knives, survival kits and simple tips on outdoor self-reliance. We are always learning and enjoy passing on the knowledge we acquire.
There is no substitute for having a plan in the event of the unexpected.
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- Reflector Oven Bread
- Preping the Sling Bow for a Big Game Hunt
- Modern Trapping Coon in Beaver set
- Brimstone Matches and Next Fire Mentality
- No Map No Problem Part 3 Height and Distance
- Saw Maintenance 2 Wood Craft on a Budget Part 14
- SS Canteen Available NOW!~
- Identifiying Flint Chert and other Sparking Rocks
- Trap Sets The Step Down Set Modern Trapping Series Part 48
- Axe Selection and Use
- The Osage Bow Part 2
- Tomahawk from a Rasp Blacksmithing Part 46
- Making Pemmican
- Moonshine Why Carry
- Trailblazer Deliverables Basic Compass Use
- Making the Flemish Bow String in the Bush Part 2
- Simple Camping Hammock use with Wool Blankets
- Forging a Hook Knife
- Finishing a New Old Stock Mora 311
- Survival Basic Series DVD Part 1
- Sharpening an Axe with a Hardware Store Grind
- Putting a Handle on a Mora Blade Blank
- Simple Machine DIY Spring Hammer
- Forging a Tomahawk from a Rasp
- Feathersticks or Shavings
- 21st Century Longhunter Series Combustion
- Fire School Part 15 Pump Drill Fire,Learning the process
- Seneca Pack Frame
- Ever thought about this? Fire Tricks
- Sustainability Long Term,Modern Trapping Series Part 42
- Blacksmithing Part 2 The Folding Small Game Gambrel
- Double Bit Axes Wood Craft on a Budget Part 17
- Sleeping Gear JMHO
- Knapping Arrowheads From Glass Part 1
- Mora Bushcraft Pathfinder
- Making a Cook Tripod with a Chain
- One Match Fire for BSA Bushcraft
- Rope Bed Construction
- The Spider Shelter Part 4, Simple Improvments
- Quick and Easy Tensioner Knot for your Tarp Lines.wmv
- 10 Simple Knife Projects Part 1
- Lighting a Candle with Flint and Steel
- Winter Pack Out
- Utilizing Resources (Making Venison Jerky) Part 2
- Natural Cordage Part 1 Harvesting and Processing Materials
- Asian Bird Trap Laos
- Vines and Withies
- Woodman's Pal
- Five Tool Rule
- Prefered Clothing and Layering for the Woods
- Simple Shadow Navigation Part 1
- Brain Tanning Hair On Part 2
- R&D of the Kephart Bedroll by Dave Canterbury and Duluth Pack
- Light Weight Scouting Pack Set up
- Trapline Diary Part 1 Coon Cuffs
- Survival Basic Series DVD Part 2
- Pathfinder Basics Estimating Distance and Pace Count Lecture
- Super Shelter Modified for the Eastern Woodlands Part 2
- FULL TANG MORA Bushcraft Knife
- Beginners Knife Safety Part 2
- Survival Bows (The Tillering Process)
- Blacksmithing Part 6 Common Man Tools and lighting the Forge
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 2
- Sloyd Project 1 Fid
- On the Waters Edge, Trekken and Fishen
- Traditional Cold weather Hammocking
- Knife Making, Material Reduction Knife Start to Finish Part 3
- Trapline Journal Coyote in MB450
- Winterizing the Hammock for the Common Man
- Samick Sage Recurve 8pt Buck Kill
- Large Bushpot Intro
- Bucksaw Modifications
- Fatwood Collecting Processing Igniting
- Aussie Wool Blanket
- Assembling a Custom Classic in the Mora Factory
- Traditional Camp Pack weight
- PFODJ Ep 2
- Hook Knife Part 1
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 4
- 1908 A&F Cook Grate
- Nordic Pocket Saw
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 1
- PFODJ Ep 5 Moved from the Pay Channel
- PFODJ Progression of Meat Source Gathering
- Experiments in Viking Navigation Viking Sun Stone
- Turkey Tail Materia Medica
- Hook Knife Part 2
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 3
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 2
- Double on Coons
- The Woodsmans Pantry Plus and the Woodland Chef Cook Kit
- Cooking Bannock in the Bush Pot with a Pack Grill Rack
- Fence Line Snares for Coyote
- Forged Scissors Part 2
- Forged Scissors Part 1
- Pathfinder Scout Hammock
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 5 Raccoon Meatloaf
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 2 Firearms
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 7 Fleshing Hides
- WInter Clothing Discussion
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 4 Tail Stripping
- Hammock Chair Hunting Seat
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 1
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 6 Single Shot Maintenance
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 8 Pocket Sets
- Making a Holiday Wreath
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 9 Making Kvass
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 3 Trash Panda
- 110 For Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 13 Wood Stoves
- Morakniv Carbon Steel Garberg
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 14 Releasing a Domestic Animal
- Z Drag with wooden Pulleys
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 12 Log Crossing Set
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 11 Chasing Mink
- Exotac Products and Titan Lighter tips
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 10 Mapping the Creek Bed
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 15
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 16 Last day for a few
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 18 Buck Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 17 Hidden Woodsman Pack
- Bushcrafting a Tarp Clip
- DD Tents
- Neck Knife to Carry or Not to Carry
- Blanket Pin Tripod
- Comprehensive Bow Drill
- Hibiscus Cordage
- The Versatile Marline Spike Hitch
- Hammock Chair Terrapin Outfitters
- Sticky Rice
- Udemy Intro Video
- Conserving the Bic in an emergency
- LL Bean Continental Ruck Sack
- Navigation The X Box Exercise
- Cave Man Conibear Updated
- Limb line Hook Set Device from natural materials
- Solar Embers without Char or Fungus
- Packing up the raised Bed Camp
- Raised Bed Emergency Shelter
- Basket Trap for Crayfish
- Making a Sun Compass
- Ottomani Sun Compass
- Dutchwaregear Chameleon Hammock and Xeon Tarp
- Tulip Poplar Knife Sheath
- Shadow Board Direction Finding
- Dirty by design
- Orienting a Map without a Compass
- Mushroom Foraging Part 2
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Crane
- Paracord Hammock
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Quickly Deployable Ridgeline
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Hanging Camp Gear
- Tighten a Shear Lash Easily
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Tripod
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 90 Degree Spine
- Mushroom Foraging
- Broiling Fish with Grill Racks and the SRO Monthly Special
- Exerpt on Basket Weaving at the Bushcraft 101 Class
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Double Prusik Tensioning System
- Week Long Training Loadout
- Lunch and the Base Camp Cookset
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 5 Navigational Aids
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The Angular Advantage
- Last Shadow First Shadow Method
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Improved Fire Starting
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Hanger
- Tulip Poplar The Best Eastern Woodland Bushcraft Resource
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Bark Candle Lantern
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 6
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The JB Figure 4 Variant
- Mushroom Foraging Part 3
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 3
- 5 Minutes to better Bushcraft other uses for Puffball Mushroom
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 7
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 5
- Fried Puff Ball Mushrooms
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 4
- Using a Strop to Clean, Sharpen, and Hone your Blades
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 1
- Best Survival Deadfall Trigger PDF4
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 2
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 9
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 8
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 10
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 11
- Blood Trailing a Deer
- M6 Takedown Rifle Comparison to the Springfield Scout
- Safe Release of Non Target Species
- French Press Testing and Protyping
- Simple Camp and a Test of the Wildward Lavu
- Pocket Stove Comparison