Blacksmithing on a Budget
Description
http://www.thepathfinderstore.com
Dave Canterbury, David Canterbury, The Pathfinder School,Bush Craft ,Survival skills, Historical Lore, Primitive Skills, Archery, Hunting, Trapping, Fishing, Navigation, Knives, Axes, Fire, Water, Shelter, Search and Rescue
Tags: Bushcraft,Survival,David Canterbury,Dave Canterbury,Pathfinder,The Pathfinder School,Archery,Hunting,Fishing,Camping,Primitive Skills,Fire,Water,Shelter,Navigation,First Aid,Search and Rescue,Signaling,Prepper,Preparedness,Self Reliance,Survivability,The 10 C's,Knives,Axes,Saws,Bow Drill,Ferrocerium Rod,Ferro Rod,Tarp,Hammock,Canteen,Cooking,Longhunter,Trapping
Video Transcription
one of guys I'm Dave Canterbury with the Pathfinder school and what I thought I would do today is I've had a lot of questions especially lately that I've been doing the Greenwood working in the blacksmithing series so heavily about what do I really need to get started in blacksmithing what do I need to pound money so I thought what I do today is I would kind of do a repeat of my budget bushcraft series and show you what you can get away with to start blacksmithing and I know this because I started blacksmithing about three years ago really heavy and over the last couple of years I've increased my intensity level of self training for forge time which equates to dirt time in the woods to make sure that I can do it and do it professionally and I think that is what a lot of people don't understand when I do video series those video series are helping me not only to convey what I want you to learn or what I want to share with you or what I want to learn with you but it also increases my knowledge and increases my proficiency at a skill and I'm a firm believer in you do something until you can't do it wrong you create muscle memory so that you cannot perform that skill wrong you eliminate all the variability within the process so that the end result is the same all the time it doesn't matter whether that's building a shelter making a fire making a knife on the forge a fire striker whatever the case may be you do it until you can't do it wrong that's why I continue a certain series over time because I want to repeat it for myself so that I become more proficient while we are learning together so what I thought I'd do today is go over some of the basic tools that you need to blacksmith with that you can get on the cheap stay with me all right so before we go to fires and anvils and all that stuff let's just talk about the basic tools required to manipulate the metal and let's think about what we have to do well a we have to be able to heat the metal which is going to require some type of Forge and we'll talk about that in a few minutes then we need a solid surface to manipulate or pound the metal to shape it the way we want it or cut it the way we want and all of those types of things that's going to require an anvil we'll talk about that in a few minute
so we're going to cut shape punch hollow those are the things that we need to be able to do these are the tools that we can do that with hammers first thing you're going to need is something to pound that Nuttall with this is just a sledge hammer and a ball peen hammer both of these came from scrap yards or flea markets both of them cost less than five bucks I reached for this hammer more than any hammer I have to this day that tells you how well I like this hammer is great for hollowing things and we'll talk more about doing hollows and creating concavities in a few minutes because you don't need a special form for that you can just use a piece of wood but something like this is also good for pounding over rivets and things like that from rounding them over so it takes the police a little bit of a rounding or more expensive rounding hammer and it gives you a large hammer that you can flip back and forth to and ball-peen hammers are good choices for forging so we can get our hammers for ten bucks or less now holding on to the mountain and manipulating it while we have a hold of it that's important these three tools are my go-to for a basic kit now I have more expensive tongs I have lots of Tom's but I'm going to be honest with you again these two tools I grab for more than anything I've bought over the years all of these came from again either scrap yards or flea markets none of them cost more than five bucks I think this is the most expensive pair I paid five bucks for right here and what I really like about these is they have a concavity on both sides for holding round stock they're concave here here with jaws in them as well for holding stock sideways and they're also very good for holding flat stock these are really good for manipulating metal and they have a longer set of handles on them so whatever they were made for to begin with I don't have any idea but for my purpose they're my go-to set of tongs for forging even to this day this is just a flat jaw set it has a set of wire cutters on it so I can cut nails to make rivets and things like that if I need to it also gives me ability to cut heavier wires that
I may need to manipulate has something else and the flat jaws are really really good for holding flat stock okay this is just a pair of old ring pliers and I'm going to show you something real quick because these plot these tongs here are virtually the same thing in larger scale except these are $100 these were virtually free I mean these things were less than 2 bucks I think or a buck if I remember right and what they like to do is manipulate that metal to do fine curls and turns and gradual curves and things like that with a metal while you're holding it with something else again I reach for these more than about anything else when I'm making small things like whether it be a squirrel cooker that I put in a turn in the Bale hat bail up for whether it be a fire steel whatever the case may be that I'm putting a small hook or turning something I reach for these more than anything else and they're also great for making fish hooks and forming fish hooks these 3 pairs of pliers again probably less than right at ten bucks for all three pair that gives me what I need to hold on to and manipulate the mode now let's talk about cutting and punching the metal we're going to need to drift holes or punch holes in the metal you're not really punching holes unless you're removing material you're drifting it you're spreading it apart okay this is just a piece of tool steel it's been sharpened on a grinder and heat treated so that it's hard and it's not going to malformed on a punching hot steel with it and it is a hot drift punch so that I can put holes in metal to open it up if I need to put a rivet in it or whatever the case may be and it's been rounded off at the front and this is just an old chisel again came from us both of these came from scrap yards for scrap yard price of sixty cents a pound and I doubt there's a pound and a half between the two of them maybe two pounds at the max this has just been sharpened up again and hardened so that I have a hot cutting chisel and I can hold on to so now I have the ability to punch holes in the metal and cut the metal a hacksaw very very good thing to have and you can get wood
leaves for this as well so you can make it multifunctional in the thing with all these pliers and things are their multi functional as well because as well as being my favorite pliers around the forge these are also some of my favorite pliers to use with cast iron cookware for lifting lids and things like that with so a lot of stuff is multifunctional in camp especially a permanent type camp a hacksaw is an indispensable item because it makes it really easy to cut metal without having to heat it up thinner metals you can cut it to shape if you need to if you're making a knife blade out of an old saw blade or something like that you can cut it to shape with this hacksaw very very easily and again you can have other blades for the saw at the same time so it makes it a worthwhile carry the blades the most expensive part of this saw because it's a Baco blade this softer aim I think cost four or five dollars at a flea market and it had a good pruning blade in when I bought it all right wire brush always going to be a good thing to have scrape off the flanking from your work when it comes out you're going to have flaking and stuff on your metal when it comes out of the forge this will help you to clean it off it also helps to get all the grit and stuff off of your metal if you're using a regular a regular fire not a coal fire a wire brush comes in real real handy wire brushes are dirt cheap you can buy them like this brand new for like a buck at a flea market okay let's talk about grinding or cutting the metal with files and grits and things like that an old horseshoe rasp is one of the best metalworking tools there is and I was introduced to this by an Amish blacksmith who's one of my mentors named at Lee Miller and he throws these away after he's done shoeing his horses but he keeps the pilotis around just for metal this side here is fantastic for shaping metal on things like fro blades draw knives axes all the things that you are working on while they're still hot hot filing this thing is perfect for this thing will remove a lot of metal if your hot filing but it's a very very good tool and it can be made into something else in an emergency if it needs to be this is just a regular mill file that's round on one side flat on the other got a wouldn't handle on it again this thing both of these came from flea markets probably for less than a buck apiece are right out of buck apiece this is just an old broken broken carborundum stone off my grinder you can find these anywhere but this will do for a quick sharpening on a blade in an emergency it will also sharpen up the edge of an awl and things like that when it comes out of the forge if you're trying to sharpen something up real fast to give it flat sharp edges like for cutting into things like leather and wood so these three tools are also very good to have that pretty much gives you all the tools that you need and tool wise to be able to shape the metal hold the metal cut the metal drift the metal or split them up all of those things or make a concavity in the middle all of those things can be done with this basic set of tools right there that basic set of tools is well under 50 bucks well under 50 bucks alright so let's talk for a minute about pounding on something you're gonna need an anvil for that all right you don't have to go out and spend a lot of money on an anvil in the beginning this table below me is a very old 268 pound hey bud an anvil this is my pride and joy okay but I didn't start out with this I started out with this which is an anvil made from a piece of railroad track and that's enough you don't even have to have the nose on there or the hardy hole cut into it to start out with you can just have a piece of railroad track and that will work for you a piece of flat hard metal like this thing probably weighs well over a gallon of milk it's probably weighs 10 pounds by itself dropping this into something that you've hauled out in a piece of wood or a stump would be fine for an amble Vikings use to apples and stumps no bigger than this all the time and made lots and lots of things you can make any small item that you need to make on any example very easily now you're not going to pound big half-inch stock into tripods and things like that with an anvil like this you're not going to make big axes and drift holes and axe heads and hammer heads and things like that with small animals like this and tools that we're talking about but you can do a lot of utility smithing repairing of traps making small implements like knives tomahawks all those types of things you can make on small animals like this very very easily you can even pound out a draw knife a chisel all those types of things could be made easily enough on anvil this size none of these animals are expensive the most expensive one was this one and that was because it was created from a piece of railroad ties somebody had really worked on this thing to make it look like an actual anvil I think I paid about 40 bucks for this one this was free and this was free so my dad always said if it's free is for me and that's the way I feel about it when it comes to trying to find stuff on a budget I'm going to look for what I could find doesn't cost anything first then I'll look for what I can find that's going to suit my needs as inexpensive as I can until I can make it better and I started out with this and I use this for a long time until I graduated to a bigger that was 100 pounds and I got it from a scrapyard and I actually bought it for scrap yard prices 60 cents a pound for 100 pound anvil then I graduated to a larger anvil it was given to me by a blacksmith friend of mine an Amish guy Matt Lee Miller and then I inherited this 268 pounds hey bud animal so I started small and worked my way up and you can do this stuff on a very very low budget now let's talk about what we have to do to heat them out because that's the next important thing okay guys real quick let's talk about how do we heat our metal and there's some really simple ways that you can do this or there's some more elaborate ways but none of them are really that expensive until you buy a full-on Forge now this one right here is a brick runner Forge it's not a brake drum it's a brake rotor so it's a little shallower than a drum and you just need to put something in the bottom of it where this pipe comes into it to keep all your stuff and fold through it and I found just a piece of a hibachi grill and a scrapyard broke pieces off of the squares and just laid them in in here to put my coal on top of the most important thing is that you have a way to contain the fire now that you have a way to force air from the bottom that's important forced air is the most important part it being able to heat metal up hot enough forging you can do it with wood coal just regular hardwood charcoal that you have made from a fire that you made ahead of time will work just fine for forging but you have to have forced air so something like this where you attach a flange to it and put some pipe on it with a tea there's a one-way air valve here on the top you don't have to have that that's the most expensive part of this whole thing this is this you plug a hairdryer right into it $10 a hairdryer for the dollar store turn it on you got forced air on the bottom you've got a screw cap so you can empty out the ash and you're good to go drop this thing down into anything that will hold it up off the ground you can put this thing in bricks you could put this thing in a charcoal grill and just cut it out and drop it through the bottom that's what I did that lasted for three years and it was still fine when I threw it away tell you the truth it wasn't rusted through when I threw it away after three years so it still worked
you can build something like this for well under 50 bucks no problem the other thing that you can do that's real easy is just get some black iron pipe that's 3/4 inch diameter and punch some holes in it or drill some holes in it and put an out couple elbows on there to get it up drop this thing on the ground and pile dirt beside it and build your fire in that v you can block off the front if you want to or you can leave it open so you can get win through there and create a wind tunnel take this and just take a cheap $10 blower that you use to hook up for an air mattress when you turn that on and plug it into through this thing it's going to blow air out of this pipe that's going to feed air to your fire from the bottom it's very very simple to do you've got 4 or 5 bucks worth of pipe they're in a ten dollar dryer or a ten dollar blower for air mattress if you want to get a little more sophisticated than that get yourself one of the 12 volt hair dryer or 12 volt blowers they all come with these attachments to go inside of the air mattress and that's all you need that little funnel plug it onto the front put that in your pipe just like this and you're good to go you can then take that cut that connector off of it you plug in your cigarette lighter
put a couple alligator clips on it and you use just a regular 12 volt battery this is a harley-davidson battery that came from a strap yard for five bucks and it's fine holds its charge just fine and it works just fine you connect a solar panel of this thing then you really got something because you can recharge it and renew that energy otherwise you can just charge it up when you're not using it or you can use battery power either one of these will work just fine and you can set up a forwards like either one of these really really cheap this one here you go for less than 50 bucks you're right at 50 bucks probably something like this you're probably talking right at 20 bucks or less to set something like this up in the dirt and you can run it off your car battery if you had to you're not going to run it long enough with this little bitty motor to run your car battery down very fast if you get any kind of a decent battery you can put it right back in your car start the car right back up to recharge guys I appreciate you joining me a day out here for this quick video on blacksmithing on a budget I wanted to get that out there for people who had asked me what's the minimum I need to do to start blacksmithing because I want to do it but I don't have a lot of money and you can spend a lot of money blacksmithing or you can do it on a budget and just increase things and get better stuff that you need as you go that's what I did that's how I built this Forge over the last three years as I started with the minimum and worked my way up I appreciate your views I percieve support I thank you for everything you do for a school for our family for our business follow our instructors sponsors affiliates and friends don't forget to watch dirty rotten survival tomorrow night ten o'clock on National Geographic thanks guys
About the Author
wildernessoutfitters
From the lore of bushcraft to all things related to self-sustainability, the Pathfinder vision is to pass on the knowledge of outdoor self-reliance. Providing basic to advanced self-reliance training and survival gear, our goal is to offer both practical knowledge and survival gear that will stand the test of time. From emergency preparedness to sustainability, the Pathfinder way is to share and educate.
Here you can explore the world of survival knives, survival kits and simple tips on outdoor self-reliance. We are always learning and enjoy passing on the knowledge we acquire.
There is no substitute for having a plan in the event of the unexpected.
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- Deer Heart and Pepper Gravy Camp Cooking
- Simple Woodcraft Aids
- Overnight Pack Out
- Fire School Part 1 Bow Drill Lessons
- Collapsible Cast Iron Skillet DIY
- Quick Upload Extracting Pine Tar from Fat Wood
- Blacksmithing Part 15 Making tools for Spoons and Ladles
- Forging and making a Primitive Adze
- Trapping Season Prep and Primer Discussion
- Top 10 Non Firearm Meat Gathering Tools
- Haversack Kit
- Pathfinder Advanced Class 1_7_2010 MA, USA.wmv
- Squirrel Hunt with a Flintlock
- Best Medium Game Snare Modified figure 4 Trigger
- Council Tool Hudson Bay Camp Axe
- Gig Discussion and Hunt with Weapon Vision Spear Cam
- 2 Dollar Knife and Sheath Project Part 2
- Go Ruck Rucker Review and Kit layout
- Bushcraft Breakfast Bannock
- On the Waters Edge Part 1 Compact Fishing Rods and Systems
- Toggle Trigger Fishing Variation
- Swiss Army Knife easy Ember , Fire Tips and Tricks
- Roycroft Pack Frame Part 3 Using Shelter Components
- Blacksmithing Part 4 Rounding and Drawing steel to make a Trap Stake
- Fire School Part 13 Ferro Rod Tips
- Tension Bending Pack Boards
- 12GA Shell Bag Contents and Discussion
- Bushpot Convection Oven
- Stretcher Bed Setup
- Pathfinder Folding Skillet
- Making Sweet Corn Bread Drop Biscuits
- Diary of the Tipi 2 Making Hide Glue.wmv
- Otzi s Knife Sheath
- Pathfinder Basic Survival Class Video Diary
- A Common Man's Grease Lamp
- Canterbury Camp Kitchen
- Rokon Winter Packout
- Blacksmith a Squirrel Cooker explained Part 47
- Leather Knife Scales
- M6 Scout Update Review
- The Osage Bow Part 1
- Basic Carving Kit
- Snow Shoes JMHO
- Simplicity
- Final Product Modified Kephart Bedroll by Duluth Pack
- Swedish Lap Vise
- Forging a Custom Carving Axe with Liam Hoffman Part 1
- Toggles The Woodsmans Friend
- Tarp Setups the Foresters Tent and the 4 W's
- Making a Blade Bowl Adze
- The osage Bow Part 4
- Taking a Bearing from your Map made easy
- Journal of the Yurt 43 Stock and Trade Part 2
- Survival JMHO
- Simple Camping Improved Pot Crane System
- Batoning Wood with your Knife
- Improving the Wax Slug Load for 12 GA and Black Powder Equivelant
- Modern Trapping Part 7 Bedding Foot Hold Traps
- Wisdom of the Wall Tent Part 3 Camp Tool Box
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 5
- Pine Crate Tool Chest
- Pathfinder School Basic Class Equipment List Rundown
- Diary of the Tipi 11 Care for a Smoothbore Flintlock.wmv
- Baking with a Plank and a Bushpot
- Wood Craft on a Budget Part 3 Sheath Knives Continued
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 3 (Food)
- Triple Barrel Shotgun PF Edition Intro
- Maul a good Learning Project
- Meat Preservation Concerns and Setting Snares
- PFODJ Ep 11 Wet Weather Fire Segment
- The Small Common Man Trapping Kit
- Useful and Medicinal Trees of the Eastern Woodlands 2
- Simple Camping Connection Knots 3
- Pathfinder Outdoor Journal Ep1 FULL HD Episode
- Quick Review of the ILBE USMC Assault Pack and Sealine Insert Bag
- Simple Blade Grinding Jig
- Diary of the Tipi 12 Working with Natural Dyes Part 1.wmv
- PF SS Kettle
- Jeff White Bush Knife and a Wet wood Fire
- My Back Yard
- Knives JMHO
- Iris Intro Video Part 2.wmv
- Thanks for Play'en, Bobcat in an MB 450 Released
- Kit Mentality Updates
- Bullet Proof Bushcraft on a Budget PVC Pack Frame
- The Osage Bow Part 5
- The Mocotaugan
- Pathfinder Knife Shop Introduction
- Deadliest Small Game Primitive Trap
- Saami Repair Kit
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit
- Stone and Bone (Utilizing Resources) Part 1
- No Map No Problem Part 2
- Arrow Making for the Common Man
- The Wish Bone Trigger Snare New
- Making a quick Spring Lathe
- Using the Slingshot to Hunt Bigger Game
- Bark Basket Part 1
- Scout Camp Common Man Black Powder Setup
- Collecting Back Sinew and Some Meat from a Roadkilled Deer
- Dakota Fire Hole Proper Construction and Use
- Artifact Quality Leather Work
- Bucket Making White Coopering
- PFODJ Ep 5 Axe Tomahawk Segment
- Reverse Figure 4 Dead fall Trigger
- Fire and Bushpots
- Shooting Shot from a 50 Cal BP Rifle
- Tarp Setups Modifed Plow Point
- 50 Cal Blue Ridge Mountain Flint Lock
- Remington Shotgun Model 1889 Double Barrel
- Shrink Pot 1
- Reflector Oven Bread
- Preping the Sling Bow for a Big Game Hunt
- Modern Trapping Coon in Beaver set
- Brimstone Matches and Next Fire Mentality
- No Map No Problem Part 3 Height and Distance
- Saw Maintenance 2 Wood Craft on a Budget Part 14
- SS Canteen Available NOW!~
- Identifiying Flint Chert and other Sparking Rocks
- Trap Sets The Step Down Set Modern Trapping Series Part 48
- Axe Selection and Use
- The Osage Bow Part 2
- Tomahawk from a Rasp Blacksmithing Part 46
- Making Pemmican
- Moonshine Why Carry
- Trailblazer Deliverables Basic Compass Use
- Making the Flemish Bow String in the Bush Part 2
- Simple Camping Hammock use with Wool Blankets
- Forging a Hook Knife
- Finishing a New Old Stock Mora 311
- Survival Basic Series DVD Part 1
- Sharpening an Axe with a Hardware Store Grind
- Putting a Handle on a Mora Blade Blank
- Simple Machine DIY Spring Hammer
- Forging a Tomahawk from a Rasp
- Feathersticks or Shavings
- 21st Century Longhunter Series Combustion
- Fire School Part 15 Pump Drill Fire,Learning the process
- Seneca Pack Frame
- Ever thought about this? Fire Tricks
- Sustainability Long Term,Modern Trapping Series Part 42
- Blacksmithing Part 2 The Folding Small Game Gambrel
- Double Bit Axes Wood Craft on a Budget Part 17
- Sleeping Gear JMHO
- Knapping Arrowheads From Glass Part 1
- Mora Bushcraft Pathfinder
- Making a Cook Tripod with a Chain
- One Match Fire for BSA Bushcraft
- Rope Bed Construction
- The Spider Shelter Part 4, Simple Improvments
- Quick and Easy Tensioner Knot for your Tarp Lines.wmv
- 10 Simple Knife Projects Part 1
- Lighting a Candle with Flint and Steel
- Winter Pack Out
- Utilizing Resources (Making Venison Jerky) Part 2
- Natural Cordage Part 1 Harvesting and Processing Materials
- Asian Bird Trap Laos
- Vines and Withies
- Woodman's Pal
- Five Tool Rule
- Prefered Clothing and Layering for the Woods
- Simple Shadow Navigation Part 1
- Brain Tanning Hair On Part 2
- R&D of the Kephart Bedroll by Dave Canterbury and Duluth Pack
- Light Weight Scouting Pack Set up
- Trapline Diary Part 1 Coon Cuffs
- Survival Basic Series DVD Part 2
- Pathfinder Basics Estimating Distance and Pace Count Lecture
- Super Shelter Modified for the Eastern Woodlands Part 2
- FULL TANG MORA Bushcraft Knife
- Beginners Knife Safety Part 2
- Survival Bows (The Tillering Process)
- Blacksmithing Part 6 Common Man Tools and lighting the Forge
- Building a Discount Bushcraft Kit Part 2
- Sloyd Project 1 Fid
- On the Waters Edge, Trekken and Fishen
- Traditional Cold weather Hammocking
- Knife Making, Material Reduction Knife Start to Finish Part 3
- Trapline Journal Coyote in MB450
- Winterizing the Hammock for the Common Man
- Samick Sage Recurve 8pt Buck Kill
- Large Bushpot Intro
- Bucksaw Modifications
- Fatwood Collecting Processing Igniting
- Aussie Wool Blanket
- Assembling a Custom Classic in the Mora Factory
- Traditional Camp Pack weight
- PFODJ Ep 2
- Hook Knife Part 1
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 4
- 1908 A&F Cook Grate
- Nordic Pocket Saw
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 1
- PFODJ Ep 5 Moved from the Pay Channel
- PFODJ Progression of Meat Source Gathering
- Experiments in Viking Navigation Viking Sun Stone
- Turkey Tail Materia Medica
- Hook Knife Part 2
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 3
- Making a Bushcraft Knife Part 2
- Double on Coons
- The Woodsmans Pantry Plus and the Woodland Chef Cook Kit
- Cooking Bannock in the Bush Pot with a Pack Grill Rack
- Fence Line Snares for Coyote
- Forged Scissors Part 2
- Forged Scissors Part 1
- Pathfinder Scout Hammock
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 5 Raccoon Meatloaf
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 2 Firearms
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 7 Fleshing Hides
- WInter Clothing Discussion
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 4 Tail Stripping
- Hammock Chair Hunting Seat
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 1
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 6 Single Shot Maintenance
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 8 Pocket Sets
- Making a Holiday Wreath
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 9 Making Kvass
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 3 Trash Panda
- 110 For Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 13 Wood Stoves
- Morakniv Carbon Steel Garberg
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 14 Releasing a Domestic Animal
- Z Drag with wooden Pulleys
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 12 Log Crossing Set
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 11 Chasing Mink
- Exotac Products and Titan Lighter tips
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 10 Mapping the Creek Bed
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 15
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 16 Last day for a few
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 18 Buck Mink
- Trappers Cabin Season 2 Part 17 Hidden Woodsman Pack
- Bushcrafting a Tarp Clip
- DD Tents
- Neck Knife to Carry or Not to Carry
- Blanket Pin Tripod
- Comprehensive Bow Drill
- Hibiscus Cordage
- The Versatile Marline Spike Hitch
- Hammock Chair Terrapin Outfitters
- Sticky Rice
- Udemy Intro Video
- Conserving the Bic in an emergency
- LL Bean Continental Ruck Sack
- Navigation The X Box Exercise
- Cave Man Conibear Updated
- Limb line Hook Set Device from natural materials
- Solar Embers without Char or Fungus
- Packing up the raised Bed Camp
- Raised Bed Emergency Shelter
- Basket Trap for Crayfish
- Making a Sun Compass
- Ottomani Sun Compass
- Dutchwaregear Chameleon Hammock and Xeon Tarp
- Tulip Poplar Knife Sheath
- Shadow Board Direction Finding
- Dirty by design
- Orienting a Map without a Compass
- Mushroom Foraging Part 2
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Crane
- Paracord Hammock
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Quickly Deployable Ridgeline
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Hanging Camp Gear
- Tighten a Shear Lash Easily
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Tripod
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 90 Degree Spine
- Mushroom Foraging
- Broiling Fish with Grill Racks and the SRO Monthly Special
- Exerpt on Basket Weaving at the Bushcraft 101 Class
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Double Prusik Tensioning System
- Week Long Training Loadout
- Lunch and the Base Camp Cookset
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft 5 Navigational Aids
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The Angular Advantage
- Last Shadow First Shadow Method
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Improved Fire Starting
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Pot Hanger
- Tulip Poplar The Best Eastern Woodland Bushcraft Resource
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft Bark Candle Lantern
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 6
- 5 Minutes to Better Bushcraft The JB Figure 4 Variant
- Mushroom Foraging Part 3
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 3
- 5 Minutes to better Bushcraft other uses for Puffball Mushroom
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 7
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 5
- Fried Puff Ball Mushrooms
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 4
- Using a Strop to Clean, Sharpen, and Hone your Blades
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 1
- Best Survival Deadfall Trigger PDF4
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 2
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 9
- Woodsman's Gear of the 20th Century Part 8
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 10
- Woodsmans Gear of the 20th Century Part 11
- Blood Trailing a Deer
- M6 Takedown Rifle Comparison to the Springfield Scout
- Safe Release of Non Target Species
- French Press Testing and Protyping
- Simple Camp and a Test of the Wildward Lavu
- Pocket Stove Comparison