Hook Knife Part 1

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The Pathfinder School,Bush Craft ,Survival skills, Historical Lore, Primitive Skills, Archery, Hunting, Trapping, Fishing, Navigation, Knives, Axes, Fire, Water, Shelter, Search and Rescue

Tags: Bushcraft,Survival,David Canterbury,Dave Canterbury,Pathfinder,The Pathfinder School,Archery,Hunting,Fishing,Camping,Primitive Skills,Fire,Water,Shelter,Navigation,First Aid,Search and Rescue,Signaling,Prepper,Preparedness,Self Reliance,Survivability,The 10 C's,Knives,Axes,Saws,Bow Drill,Ferrocerium Rod,Ferro Rod,Tarp,Hammock,Canteen,Cooking,Longhunter,Trapping

Video Transcription

morning guys I'm Dave Canterbury with self-reliance Outfitters in the Pathfinder school what we're gonna do today is we're gonna continue with our scandinavian bushcraft kit and we're going to make a crooked knife today it's a very simple design process to make a hook blade for carving concavities in wood and like we talked about in the five tool rule video there's really five things you need to do to manipulate wooden materials to make usable objects you need to cross cut the grain you need to be able to split the wood along the grain you need to be able to shape the wood you need to be able to bore holes in the wood and then cut concavities into the wood and the hook knife is both a planing type tool for shaping as well as a tool for making tongue cavities and the traditional mucket Augen it was called by the Native American peoples is something that was used to make things like canoes snowshoes and those type of implements and it was a very important tool to the Native Americans and bluejacket said that his most important possessions were his axe his wife and his crooked knife so he put great importance on this tool now in the period of 910 ad back in Europe and Scandinavia

there are also fines from anglo-saxon periods of a knife that has a hooked blade on it as well from that area of the world and so when I think about a hook knife and the hook knife was also written about by people like Ellsworth Yeager in his book on wild wood wisdom when I think about a hook knife the maka tagging was a knife that was really beveled on the top of the blade and was used reverse handed to do drawing type tasks for planing and shaping wood whereas the European style hook knife is beveled on the bottom side so that it lifts itself out of the wood when you're making concavities so today we're going to design something that's kind of a combination of those two tools the hook knife and the maka toggle and that's something that been Orford did very well in some of the tools that he's I've got several of his market Argon's that he's made and they are a variation where they are beveled on the bottom and that's not to say that no market organs were ever beveled on the bottom because they may very well have been we only have limited evidence of any of these things from the past so maybe the ones that have been found are the ones that have been restored that were used in the you know late seventeen or the 1800s were beveled on the top side instead of the bottom so we assume they all work it's hard to say but I think that people's from different time periods tried lots and lots of different things to see what works best for them and for making concavities you really want that bevel on the bottom so that instead of being like a chisel grind that digs into the wood you want it to be something that lifts itself out of the wood more like a gouge so what we're going to do is we're going to take a couple blank pieces of stock today just a piece of 1095 and a piece of scrap walnut here from our knife shop and we're going to make a handle very reminiscent of a mock Italian and we're going to make a blade very reminiscent of a hook knife and combine those two together to make usable tool for the Eastern woodlands stay with me okay so you can see what I've got here I've got a piece of 8-inch 1095 here and I kind of divided out and marked Tang here and blade here and then we'll start to profile out here in a minute then I've taken a piece of scrap walnut here reclaimed walnut and I've drawn a handle shape on it that's going to be conducive to use it upside down if I want to in a pulling or I can also just grab it here it's got a nice poem swelling as well to use it the other direction but either way this should become a very usable tool so we're going to cut this handle out as well but we're gonna make our blade first and then we'll work on the handle okay so the first thing we want to do is we want to clean this up and make sure that we have got the shape that we wanted the blade to begin with before we profile our blade edge and we also want to reduce this Tang a little bit so that we can stick it into a hole just like we did with the knife yesterday that we made and epoxy it in place that'll be the difference between a maca tagging that's usually mounted to the bottom and a recess and then wrapped and a hook knife which is generally sort of engine to handle so we're gonna insert this one into the handle but the handle will be shaped similar to a maka target so we'll get this thing up here nicely use a block of wood and all I really want to do is make sure that I've got a good straight edge here begin with the workwear

and that everything's nice to square it up

okay now I'm gonna reduce my pag just a little bit here [Music]

okay we're pretty good now [Music]

all right so there's what we ended up with I get to start hanging our blade we've got a pretty even double here on both sides and we've got our tank created already for a rat tail tangle up in the handle and now we're ready to start looking on a blade now the next thing I did was I got my profile up here at the top and so it's going to sit like this and be hooked up when we're done but now we need to put our bevel in before we do any heating or fending on this thing we want to get our initial double on this thing first so now we need to think about that if this tool is going to be used in this fashion then we're going to want the bevel side on the bottom and it only gets doubled on one side not both so we're going to bring our bevel from this side up to the top for the left-handed tool okay so we've got our tool on the jig and remember we're going to grind this side and this side only have a single bevel so we're not worried about going top center line this time but we're using that same jig which is about 11 degrees and we're just going to put this on here and begin to grind our bevel now you just want to take your time with this to see this couples going clear across the piece we don't have enough whip to leave ourselves any meat up here but that's a good thing because we want that bevel to be the full width of that so that when we convex it over a little bit later which we will do that'll help it to pull itself out of the concavity and we'll pan put that convex in there later on on a fine belt once we get our just aligned on constantly checking my fitness and looking for that wire edge now as I see I'm getting close to my wire edge here on my district ride I'm going to change out to a ceramic belt it's not quite taking as much meat off you can get close to where I want to be in this step of the process [Music]

now what's really important in this step is that we are cognizant of with the top and the bottom is because when we bend this we don't want to bend the wrong side and that's start over by straightening it out again I'm gonna use a really light weight hammer for those and I'm just taking it really slow to get exactly what I want here now I'm going to end my tank just a little bit to drop the front end of this look down and then I'm going to clean it up and we're going to go ahead point you it's no different than the other employees that would push as far as that goes